
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1048, Filet de Bœuf Clamart, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Beef fillet roasted rosy, with pea-filled tartlets and crisp potato quoits alternating around the platter, plus a lightly thickened pan gravy served separately: classical order made workable for one careful cook.
Filet de Bœuf Clamart (roast beef fillet with buttery pea tartlets and crisp potato quoits) teaches orchestration. The one true thing to know before you touch the pan is that the garnish must be ready first: tenderloin has a brief, perfect rosy interval, and it will not wait while you fill tartlets.
The original entry assumed a larder able to lard the fillet, an entremetier tending peas and potatoes, a saucier beside stock never off the fire, and a hot station where a salamander could restore a crust at service. At home, a chilled skewer replaces the larding needle, good prepared stock supplies the gravy, and one oven reheats the finished garnishes while the beef rests. Parallel hands and holding pans are brigade scaffolding and can go. The internal larding, the alternating tartlets and potato quoits, and the lightly thickened gravy served separately are the dish, so they stay.
Done properly, the fillet arrives deeply bronzed and evenly rose within, its platter bright with green peas and butter-gold potatoes, the gravy gleaming in its own boat. One cook, one stove, one evening. Before the beef meets the heat, have every shell, finished garnish, and measure of stock waiting.
Filet de Bœuf Clamart belongs to the Parisian classical table, and its name points southwest of Paris to Clamart, whose market gardens supplied peas prized in the capital. In the canon, à la Clamart signals a green-pea garnish, here held in tartlet shells and alternated with potato quoits around a roast fillet. The name has nothing to do with clams; it preserves a food-growing place in the working language of the grand kitchen.
Quantity
1 roast, 2 lb (900 g)
evenly trimmed
Quantity
3 oz (85 g)
cut into 6 to 8 long batons and chilled firm
Quantity
1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g)
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
divided
Quantity
8
about 2½ inches (6 cm) across
Quantity
1½ cups (350 ml / 340 g) Petits Pois à la Française (No. 2193)
fully prepared with the cooked lettuce ciseled and folded through
Quantity
8 small quoits, about 12 oz (340 g) total, Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228)
fully prepared and browned
Quantity
1¼ cups (300 ml / 300 g)
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 9 g)
softened
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 6 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| center-cut beef tenderloin roastevenly trimmed | 1 roast, 2 lb (900 g) |
| dry-cured unsmoked pork back fat, sold ready to eatcut into 6 to 8 long batons and chilled firm | 3 oz (85 g) |
| fine sea salt | 1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g) |
| clarified butterdivided | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| small baked savory tartlet crustsabout 2½ inches (6 cm) across | 8 |
| Petits Pois à la Françaisefully prepared with the cooked lettuce ciseled and folded through | 1½ cups (350 ml / 340 g) Petits Pois à la Française (No. 2193) |
| Pommes de Terre Macairefully prepared and browned | 8 small quoits, about 12 oz (340 g) total, Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228) |
| unsalted beef or veal stock | 1¼ cups (300 ml / 300 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 9 g) |
| all-purpose flour | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 6 g) |
| water (optional) | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) |
Take the beef from the cold 30 minutes before roasting. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the center. Have the tartlet crusts on one end of a baking sheet, the finished Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228) on the other, and the finished Petits Pois à la Française (No. 2193) in a small saucepan. Measure the stock and set out the long platter and sauceboat. This mise en place is not fussiness; the fillet will be ready before a scattered cook is.
Make 6 to 8 evenly spaced channels lengthwise through the fillet with a narrow metal skewer, widening each only enough with a slim chopstick to accept one chilled baton of back fat. Push the fat through while it is firm, then tie the roast at 1½-inch (4 cm) intervals so it holds an even cylinder. If a baton softens and buckles, stop and chill it again; if a channel breaks through the side, use two shorter batons inserted from opposite ends. Ça se rattrape. Season the entire surface with the salt and pepper.
Set the fillet in a shallow metal roasting pan and coat it with 1 tablespoon of the clarified butter. Roast for 10 minutes, until the surface begins to bronze. Reduce the oven to 400°F (200°C), turn the fillet, baste it with the remaining clarified butter and the pan juices, then roast for another 12 to 18 minutes. Pull it at 122°F (50°C) in the center for medium-rare; it should rise to about 128 to 132°F (53 to 56°C) as it rests. If the narrow end colors or cooks too quickly, cover only that end with a small piece of foil.
Transfer the fillet to a board with a rim, cover it loosely, and rest it for 15 minutes. Lower the oven to 375°F (190°C) and put the Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228) in to reheat and regain their crisp surfaces. Pour loose fat from the roasting pan but leave every brown trace of fond. Set the pan over medium heat, add the stock, and scrape until the fond dissolves, then simmer until reduced by about one quarter. Work the softened butter and flour together into a beurre manié, a kneaded butter-and-flour paste, and whisk it into the gravy a small piece at a time. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, stopping when the gravy reaches a light nappe and just coats the back of a spoon. If it lumps, whisk firmly and strain it; if it grows too thick, add stock or water one spoonful at a time. Ça se rattrape. Taste, then send the gravy to a warm sauceboat.
Turn the Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228) after 4 minutes and give them 8 to 10 minutes in all. Add the tartlet crusts to the oven for their final 3 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the Petits Pois à la Française (No. 2193) over very low heat, folding gently so the cooked lettuce, ciseled into fine short ribbons, remains evenly distributed. Do not boil the peas. If their butter has tightened in holding, add 1 tablespoon of the water and swirl until they turn glossy again. Fill each warm tartlet only when everything else is ready, or the crusts will soften.
Remove the strings and set the whole fillet lengthwise on a warm platter. Arrange the eight tartlets of Petits Pois à la Française (No. 2193) and the eight quoits of Pommes de Terre Macaire (No. 2228) alternately around it, keeping the pattern generous and clear. Carry the fillet whole to the table, carve it into four thick portions there, and pass the lightly thickened gravy separately. À table!
1 serving (about 440g)
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