Sopa de Castanhas

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 4-liter pot or Dutch oven
• •Sharp paring knife for scoring chestnuts
• •Wooden spoon for crushing

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the chestnuts

   If using fresh chestnuts, score an X on the flat side of each one with a sharp knife. Bring a pot of water to a boil and blanch the chestnuts for 3 minutes. Remove a few at a time (keeping the rest warm in the water) and peel away both the hard outer shell and the papery inner skin. Work quickly. Cold chestnuts are stubborn chestnuts. This takes patience. Put on some fado and settle in.

   Frozen peeled chestnuts are not cheating. The grandmothers would have used them if they'd had them. Life was hard enough without spending an hour peeling.
2. 2

   Build the refogado

   In a heavy pot, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the crumbled chouriço and cook, stirring occasionally, until it renders its fat and turns golden at the edges, about 5 minutes. The kitchen should smell like smoke and paprika. Add the onion and cook slowly until soft and translucent, another 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic in the last minute. Não tenhas pressa.

   Use transmontano chouriço if you can find it. It's smokier and drier than southern varieties. If you can't find it, any good Portuguese chouriço works. Never Spanish chorizo. Separar as águas.
3. 3

   Simmer the chestnuts

   Add the peeled chestnuts to the pot and stir to coat them in the fragrant fat. Pour in the water or broth. Add the bay leaves and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook until the chestnuts are completely tender and beginning to break apart, 35 to 45 minutes. Some will hold their shape; others will crumble. Both are right.

4. 4

   Create the texture

   Remove the bay leaves. Using the back of a wooden spoon, crush about half of the chestnuts against the side of the pot. This thickens the broth and creates that velvety texture. Leave the rest whole for contrast. Taste and adjust the salt. The soup should be nutty, slightly sweet from the chestnuts, savory from the chouriço. If it needs brightness, a small splash of white wine vinegar can help, but this is optional.

5. 5

   Serve with generosity

   Ladle the soup into deep bowls. Drizzle each portion with your best azeite. Finish with freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately with thick slices of pão de centeio or broa for dipping. In Trás-os-Montes, they say you haven't finished your soup until you've wiped the bowl clean with bread. I don't argue with tradition.

Chef Tips

• •Fresh chestnuts are worth the effort during season (October through December). Look for ones that feel heavy and have tight, glossy shells. Avoid any with tiny holes, which means worms got there first.
• •The soup thickens as it sits. If reheating the next day, add a splash of water or broth to loosen it back to the right consistency.
• •Some families in Trás-os-Montes add a handful of rice or white beans for substance. My grandmother's friend in Bragança swore by adding a potato. All are traditional. All are correct.
• •If you want a silkier texture, blend half the soup and stir it back in. But the rustic version, with visible chestnut pieces, is how the grandmothers made it.

Advance Preparation

• •Fresh chestnuts can be peeled up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. They oxidize slightly but it doesn't affect the final soup.
• •The finished soup keeps well for 3 days refrigerated and improves overnight as the flavors deepen. Thin with water when reheating.
• •This soup freezes beautifully for up to 2 months. Mountain food was made to be stored.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 400g)