Nonat

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •3-quart (2.8 L) heavy saucepan or Dutch oven
• •Clip-on deep-fry thermometer
• •Wide fine-mesh skimmer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Wire rack set over a rimmed tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Dry the fish

   Drain the nonat thoroughly. Rinse them briefly only if they carry sand, then spread them between clean kitchen towels and blot with a gentle hand until the surfaces feel dry rather than slippery. Leave the fish whole, including heads and bones; at this size, that is the dish. Don't salt them yet, because salt draws moisture back to the surface.

   Frozen whitebait is an honest choice, but thaw it completely in the refrigerator and drain it well. Ice hidden among the fish will make the frying oil surge dangerously.
2. 2

   Heat the frying oil

   Pour the oil into a 3-quart (2.8 L) heavy saucepan, leaving the vessel no more than half full. Clip on a thermometer and heat the oil over medium heat to 175 to 180°C (350 to 355°F). Set a wire rack over a rimmed tray beside the stove. Keep the pan handle turned inward and never leave hot oil unattended.

3. 3

   Dust one batch

   Divide the fish loosely into four batches. Put the flour in a wide bowl, add one batch of nonat, and turn them gently until every fish wears a thin, even coat. Shake them in a fine-mesh sieve to remove every loose pocket of flour. Flour only what will enter the oil immediately; if coated fish wait, their moisture turns the flour to paste.

4. 4

   Fry to pale gold

   Lower the floured fish carefully into the oil and stir once with a wide skimmer so they separate. Fry for 1½ to 2 minutes, maintaining 175 to 180°C (350 to 355°F), until the coating is pale gold and the fish feel crisp from head to tail. Lift them to the rack and let the oil recover before coating the next batch. If a batch emerges pale and flexible because the oil cooled, let it drain while the oil returns to 180°C (355°F), then refry it for 20 to 30 seconds. Ça se rattrape. If the fish darken before they crisp, the oil is too hot; lower the heat before the next batch.

5. 5

   Salt and serve

   Season each batch with a little of the sea salt while the coating is still hot, then heap all the nonat loosely on a warm platter. Serve at once, with lemon wedges if you want their brightness. No sauce is needed, and a heavy one would smother what you worked to preserve. Take the platter outdoors, pour a cold glass, and let everyone eat with their fingers. À table!

Chef Tips

• •True nonat is a coastal catch and may be difficult to find away from Nice. The source gives whitebait as the replacement, so choose the smallest available, ideally no longer than 2 inches (5 cm). Frozen is preferable to tired fresh fish; technique first, always.
• •Use refined olive oil for the Niçois register, or peanut oil when that is the fresher, more stable frying fat available. Extra-virgin olive oil brings expense and a stronger flavor without improving this quick fry.
• •The flour must be a veil, not a batter. Shake off the excess thoroughly or it falls into the oil, burns between batches, and leaves the fish with a heavy crust.
• •Nonat waits for nobody. If the table isn't ready, the fish aren't ready to fry. Serve with a dry Bellet blanc from the hills of Nice or a pale Provençal rosé, both properly cold.

Advance Preparation

• •Up to 2 hours before frying, drain and dry the fish, then refrigerate them uncovered on a towel-lined tray. Keep them cold until the oil begins heating.
• •Measure the flour and salt and arrange the draining rack before heating the oil. Do not flour the fish ahead; the coating will absorb moisture and become pasty.
• •Fried Nonat does not improve by waiting. If any remains, chill it promptly and recrisp it in a very hot oven, knowing it will be firmer than the first serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)