Cocky-Leeki Soup

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Snug 5-quart (4.7 L) heavy pot with lid
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Clean cheesecloth, optional for a second straining
• •Sharp chef's knife
• •Small saucepan for the optional prunes
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Poach the chicken gently

   Set the chicken breast-side down in a snug heavy pot and add the veal stock, onion, carrot, bouquet garni, and peppercorns. Bring the liquid up slowly over medium-low heat, skimming away the grey foam as it gathers. When the first lazy bubble breaks the surface, lower the heat until the broth barely trembles, partially cover, and poach for 60 to 75 minutes. The chicken is ready when the leg joint yields easily and the thickest part of the thigh reaches at least 165°F (74°C). If the pot breaks into a boil, take it off the heat at once and let it settle for 5 minutes before continuing over lower heat; ça se rattrape, and a second careful straining will restore much of the broth's clarity.

   Choose a pot that holds the chicken closely. A broad pot demands extra stock and weakens the source ratio, while a snug pot keeps the bird covered and the broth concentrated.
2. 2

   Strain the cooking liquor

   Lift the chicken onto a tray and leave it until cool enough to handle. Pour the cooking liquor carefully through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl or saucepan. Do not press the aromatics against the sieve, because that forces their particles back into the clear broth. Let the liquid stand for 5 minutes, then skim off excess fat while leaving a few golden droplets for flavor. If the broth remains cloudy, pass it once more through a sieve lined with clean damp cheesecloth.

3. 3

   Cut the leek julienne

   Split the leek whites lengthwise and wash carefully between every layer; grit hides where confidence cannot see it. Cut them into 2-inch (5 cm) sections, then cut each section julienne-fashion into match-shaped rods about ⅛ inch (3 mm) wide. Keep the strips even so they soften together and sit neatly on the spoon.

4. 4

   Stew leeks without color

   Melt the butter in the cleaned soup pot over low heat. Add the leek julienne with a small pinch of the salt, cover, and stew gently for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring twice, until supple and glossy but still completely pale. Coloration is not browning to celebrate here; it muddies the broth and changes its clean leek flavor. If the bottom begins to catch, spoon the pale leeks into a clean pan without scraping up the browned patch, add a ladle of strained broth, and continue. Ça se rattrape. Pour in the remaining cooking liquor and simmer at the gentlest tremble for 12 to 15 minutes, until the leeks are tender but retain their shape.

5. 5

   Cut and return chicken

   Remove the skin and bones from the chicken. Cut the meat julienne-fashion into fine strips about the same length as the leeks, rather than pulling it into coarse shreds. Once the leeks are tender, fold in enough chicken to make the soup generous without crowding out its broth. Warm for 3 to 4 minutes without boiling, then season gradually with the remaining salt and the white pepper. If the broth tastes heavy rather than clear and savory, skim the surface once more; do not dilute it before tasting for salt.

6. 6

   Stew prunes separately

   If using the prunes, place them in a small saucepan with the water and simmer gently for 10 to 12 minutes, until plump and tender but still whole. Add another spoonful of water if the pan dries before they soften. Transfer them with a little of their liquid to a separate serving bowl. Pour the Potage Cocky-Leeki into a warmed soup tureen and bring both dishes to the table, allowing each guest to add a prune or leave the clear broth untouched. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Light veal stock means pale, clean, and gently gelatinous, not the dark roasted concentrate sold as demi-glace. Choose a low-salt prepared stock if you don't keep your own; a dark stock overwhelms the leek and turns this into another soup.
• •A modest young chicken is the practical home equivalent for the source's fowl. It cooks sooner and gives more tender meat, which is why the poach stops as soon as the joints yield. Technique first, always.
• •Wash the leeks after splitting them, not merely from the outside. Their layers hold soil stubbornly, and one grain of grit can undo a very careful tureen.
• •The prunes belong beside the soup, not hidden in it. Their dark fruitiness is striking against the clear savory broth, but serving them separately honors both the source and the guest who prefers the soup without sweetness.
• •For a dinner party, pour a restrained dry white with enough body for the veal stock, such as an unoaked Chardonnay. Good bread and salted butter are all the table needs beside it.

Advance Preparation

• •Poach the chicken and strain the cooking liquor up to a day ahead. Chill the broth and chicken separately; once cold, lift away the firm surface fat, leaving a little behind for flavor.
• •The leeks can be washed and cut julienne-fashion several hours ahead. Wrap them in a barely damp towel and keep them cold so their edges do not dry.
• •The completed soup keeps for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. Reheat it at a bare simmer so the chicken stays tender, and store any prunes in their own liquid.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 250g)