Charlotte Renaissance

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •7-inch (18 cm) charlotte mould, about 3½ inches (9 cm) deep
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Flexible spatula and balloon whisk
• •Large bowl for an ice bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the mould

   Set a 7-inch (18 cm) charlotte mould on parchment and trace its base. Cut the circle just inside the line so it lies perfectly flat in the bottom, with no wrinkles for the bavarois to remember. Prepare a bowl of ice water large enough to hold the saucepan later, then clear a level shelf in the refrigerator.

2. 2

   Glaze the génoise

   Trim the Pâte à Génoise Fine (No. 2376) into enough rectangles to cover the mould wall, each about 1¼ inches (3 cm) wide and cut precisely to the mould's height. Stir the confectioners' sugar with the measured water to make a thick glaze that falls in a slow ribbon. Divide it between two bowls, leave one white, and tint the other pale pink. Glaze one face of each rectangle, alternating the colors, and let them dry until no longer tacky. If the glaze runs into the sponge, it is too thin; add more confectioners' sugar. If it tears beneath the spoon, add water one drop at a time. Ça se rattrape.

   Keep the pink delicate. The alternating panels should look like pastry, not a striped sweet from a shop window.
3. 3

   Line the mould

   Lay the parchment circle in the bottom. Stand the génoise rectangles around the wall with their glazed faces pressed against the mould, alternating white and pink and fitting the edges closely without heavy overlaps. Chill the lined mould while the filling is made so the panels stay firm and upright.

4. 4

   Macerate raw fruit

   Reserve the thick pineapple slice for the crown. Combine the sliced apricots and peaches, diced pineapple, and whole wild strawberries with the Kirsch. Let them macerate for 20 minutes in the refrigerator, turning them once with a spoon. Drain them thoroughly in a sieve before folding them into the bavarois; the fruit must carry the perfume, not a puddle of liqueur. Keep every piece raw.

5. 5

   Cook the crème anglaise

   Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the cold water and leave it to bloom for 5 minutes. Put the milk, vanilla seeds, and scraped pod in a saucepan and bring just to the edge of a simmer. Whisk the yolks with the caster sugar until smooth, then pour in the hot milk gradually while whisking. Return everything to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a flexible spatula, until the crème anglaise (pouring custard) coats the spatula and reaches 180°F to 183°F (82°C to 84°C). Never let it boil. If fine grains appear, remove it from the heat immediately, whisk in a tablespoon of the measured cold cream, blend briefly, and strain; caught early, it can be rescued.

6. 6

   Set the bavarois base

   Remove the vanilla pod and stir the bloomed gelatin into the hot crème anglaise until completely dissolved. Set the saucepan in the prepared ice bath and stir gently until the custard is cool, slightly thickened, and beginning to hold the trail of the spatula, about 75°F (24°C). This is the decisive point. If it is warm, it will flatten the cream; if it sets into lumps, warm the pan briefly over lukewarm water and stir until fluid again. Ça se rattrape.

7. 7

   Fold cream and fruit

   Whip the remaining cold cream to soft peaks that bend at the tip. Fold one-third into the thickened custard to lighten it, then fold in the rest with broad strokes from the bottom of the bowl. Add the well-drained fruit and fold only until evenly distributed. Work without lingering because the gelatin is now setting, but do not beat; the air held by the cream gives the bavarois its tender body.

8. 8

   Fill and chill

   Spoon the bavarois into the lined mould in three additions, nudging it gently against the génoise so no empty pockets remain. Level the top, cover without touching the surface, and refrigerate for 5 hours, until the center feels firm but still softly resilient. Do not hold the assembled charlotte overnight: fresh pineapple contains an enzyme that gradually weakens gelatin, so this is a same-day dessert by design.

9. 9

   Unmould and crown

   Place a chilled serving plate over the mould and invert both together. Lift the mould straight up. If it resists, wrap the outside with a warm, barely damp towel for 10 seconds and try again, without wetting the génoise. Peel away the parchment, lay the reserved thick pineapple slice in its place, and decorate it with the candied fruit. Cut with a long knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between slices. The bavarois should stand cleanly while yielding softly to the fork. À table!

Chef Tips

• •This charlotte belongs to the ripe-fruit season. Apricots and peaches must smell of themselves before they are cut; tired imported fruit cannot be repaired by Kirsch. If wild strawberries are unavailable, use the smallest fragrant strawberries you can find and halve them only if necessary.
• •Fresh pineapple must remain raw because its bright bite is part of the dish, but it also softens gelatin over time. Use the full amount of gelatin, drain the fruit carefully, chill promptly, and serve the charlotte the day it is assembled.
• •A proper bavarois is neither stiff jelly nor loose mousse. Cool the crème anglaise until it just begins to thicken, then fold in softly whipped cream. C'est la même grammaire as every bavarois in the canon: custard, gelatin, cream, and temperature held in balance.
• •Kirsch should smell cleanly of cherries rather than sugary cordial. The fruit needs its perfume and dryness, not extra sweetness.
• •Refrigerate leftovers immediately and eat them within one day. The texture will soften as the fresh pineapple continues working on the gelatin.

Advance Preparation

• •The finished génoise sheet can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, cooled completely, and wrapped airtight at room temperature. Cut and glaze the panels up to 1 day ahead, then keep them dry and covered.
• •Prepare the parchment circle, cut the fruit, and measure the custard ingredients earlier on the serving day. Do not combine the fruit with Kirsch until 20 minutes before it enters the bavarois.
• •Assemble the charlotte about 5 to 7 hours before serving. It needs the full chilling time, but fresh pineapple makes an overnight rest unsuitable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)