Grills

Grillades de Bœuf et d’Agneau teach cuisson par concentration (cooking by concentration). Fierce direct heat browns the surface before the centre loses its juice. The crust doesn't form an impermeable seal, but it does create flavour quickly, which lets you stop cooking while the meat remains succulent. The one true thing to know before meat touches metal is this: the bars must already be fiercely hot.

The original instruction assumed a built charcoal hearth, a grate heated permanently over live fuel, adjustable draughts, and powerful ventilation. A home charcoal grill answers honestly with a chimney starter, a shaped bed of fully lit coals, and a clear safety zone for flare-ups. The source gives a method rather than brigade portions, so here it becomes two strip steaks and eight lamb chops for four, enough variety to use the graduated fire exactly as intended. The blowers and permanent hearth are scaffolding; smokeless embers, an even bed, and a thoroughly heated grate are the dish.

Keep the seasoning spare. Beef, lamb, salt, pepper, and clean charcoal have quite enough to say. Heat the grate before you oil and season the meat, then never force a piece that clings to the bars. Give it another half-minute and the browned crust will release intact.