Noodles (Nouilles)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pastry board or clear work surface
• •Long rolling pin
• •Bench scraper
• •Sharp chef’s knife
• •8-quart stockpot
• •12-inch heavy skillet
• •Deep warmed serving bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Mix and knead paste

   Mix the flour and 14 g salt thoroughly, then mound them on the board and open a broad well in the centre. Whisk the whole eggs and yolks together, pour them into the well, and draw in the flour gradually with a fork until a rough paste forms. Knead firmly for 12 to 15 minutes, using a bench scraper to gather every crumb, until the paste is smooth, dense, and slightly satiny. It should feel much firmer than bread dough. If loose crumbs remain after several minutes, cover the paste and crumbs with an inverted bowl for 10 minutes, then knead again; the weighed eggs contain the moisture, but the flour needs time to drink it.

   Weigh the eggs without their shells if they run unusually small or large. The original count assumes about 150 g of whole egg and 90 g of yolk, and that ratio gives the paste its strength and richness.
2. 2

   Roll first sheets

   Divide the paste into four equal pieces so it fits a home board, shaping each into a flat rectangle and keeping the others covered. Roll one piece at a time from the centre outward, turning it frequently, until it forms an even sheet about 3 mm thick. Keep the board clean and scrape away any tacky patches instead of burying the paste in extra flour. If a sheet contracts as quickly as you roll it, cover it for 10 minutes and begin again; the gluten is tense, not ruined.

3. 3

   Roll them again

   Give each sheet its second complete rolling, thinning it evenly to about 1 mm. Work from the centre toward the edges and turn the sheet often so no damp patch fastens itself to the board. You should be able to see the shadow of your fingers through the paste without finding holes. Stop after this second rolling. Repeatedly worrying the dough with the pin only toughens and dries it.

4. 4

   Rest before cutting

   Lay the sheets flat on clean, dry kitchen towels and leave them for 1 to 2 hours, turning them once halfway through. Begin checking at 1 hour: they are ready when the surfaces feel matte and no longer tacky, while the sheets still bend without cracking. This rest is the step that matters. Cut too early and the ribbons stick together; wait until they become brittle and they splinter. If the edges have dried too far, cover the sheet with a barely damp towel for 5 minutes. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Cut and reserve

   Roll each rested sheet into a very loose cylinder without pressing it, then cut crosswise into ribbons about ¼ inch (6 mm) wide. Uncoil them immediately with your fingers. Reserve about 1½ ounces (40 g) of the shortest raw ribbons for the crisp crown, trimming them to roughly 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) so they sauté evenly. Spread the reserved noodles in a single layer and gather the rest into loose nests.

6. 6

   Boil and butter

   Bring the water to a strong boil in a large pot. Do not add more salt; the paste already carries the full measure specified in the original formula. Cook the noodles in two batches for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring as soon as they enter the water, until tender but still resilient and free of any floury core. Lift them out, drain thoroughly without rinsing, and transfer them to a warmed deep serving bowl, dividing 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 43 g) of the butter between the batches. If the ribbons begin clinging before they are buttered, dip them back into the boiling water for 10 seconds, drain again, and toss immediately.

7. 7

   Sauté the crown

   Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the reserved raw noodles in one loose layer and sauté for 4 to 6 minutes, turning constantly, until they are deep butter-gold, rigid, and crisp all the way through. If the butter darkens before the noodles snap cleanly, slide the pan off the heat, lower the burner, and continue more gently. Scatter the crisp noodles over the buttered nouilles only at the last moment, then carry the bowl straight to the table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use ordinary all-purpose flour, not bread flour. Strong flour makes a paste that fights the rolling pin and produces a tougher noodle; the eggs already provide ample structure.
• •The source’s salt looks bold because it seasons the paste itself. Keep the boiling water unsalted, and the finished nouilles will be properly seasoned rather than briny.
• •Judge the drying by touch, not merely by the clock. A humid kitchen may require nearly 2 hours, while a dry heated room can bring the sheets to the right matte surface close to 1 hour.
• •The crisp crown must be thin enough to cook through before the butter darkens. If your main noodles are thicker than 1 mm, roll the reserved portion thinner before cutting it.
• •Store leftover buttered noodles and crisp noodles separately in the cold for up to 3 days. Warm the tender noodles gently with a little butter, then return the crown to a dry skillet for 30 seconds before scattering it over.
• •A dry Alsatian Sylvaner or Pinot Blanc suits the eggs and butter without overpowering them. Keep the five unused egg whites for financiers, meringues, or an omelette; they freeze very well.

Advance Preparation

• •The paste can be kneaded, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before completing the two rollings and the required 1 to 2 hour sheet rest.
• •After resting and cutting, freeze the uncooked noodles in loose nests on a tray, then transfer them to a sealed container for up to 1 month. Freeze the crown pieces flat and separately. Boil the nests directly from frozen for 1 to 2 minutes longer, but thaw the crown pieces uncovered for 15 minutes before sautéing.
• •The crisp crown may be sautéed up to 2 hours ahead and held uncovered until cool, then airtight at room temperature. Recrisp it for 30 seconds in a dry skillet and add it only when the buttered noodles are ready.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 300g)