Fonds d’Artichauts Farcis

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Sharp paring knife and serrated knife
• •Sturdy teaspoon or melon baller
• •4 to 5-quart nonreactive saucepan
• •Parchment paper for a cartouche
• •2-quart shallow broiler-safe gratin dish
• •Small saucepan and warmed sauceboat

Instructions

1. 1

   Turn the artichokes

   Work on one artichoke at a time. Snap the stem away close to the base, pulling rather than slicing so some of its tough fibers come with it. Cut across the leaf cone about 1 inch above the base, then use a sharp paring knife to remove the remaining green leaf bases and round the sides into a neat, thick cup. Pull out the small purple leaves and scoop away every thread of fuzzy choke without gouging the tender flesh beneath. Rub all exposed surfaces firmly with a lemon half and keep the finished bottom beneath a damp clean towel while you prepare the rest.

   Turn the knife around the artichoke while keeping the blade nearly still. Small, shallow cuts preserve more of the bottom than one heroic slice.
2. 2

   Poach until firm

   Bring the prepared Special Court-bouillon, or Blanc (No. 167) to a boil in a wide nonreactive saucepan, stirring as it heats because its flour can settle. Lower in the artichoke bottoms, place a parchment cartouche directly over them to keep them submerged, and return the liquid to a bare simmer. Cook for 12 to 16 minutes, checking early, until a paring knife enters the thick edge with distinct but gentle resistance. If they become fully tender, lift them out at once, chill them, and plan to gratinée them under the broiler without the preliminary oven heating. Ça se rattrape, but softness cannot be cooked backward.

3. 3

   Drain them thoroughly

   Lift the bottoms from the blanc and drain them hollow-side down on a clean towel or rack for 10 minutes. Turn them over and blot the cups and rims thoroughly. Trapped liquid thins the filling and softens the crumb, so give it somewhere to go now. Use about 1 teaspoon of the butter to coat a shallow broiler-safe gratin dish, then arrange the bottoms hollow-side up.

4. 4

   Fill with duxelle

   Divide the prepared Duxelle for Stuffed Vegetables (Tomatoes, Mushrooms, &c.) (No. 224) among the artichoke bottoms, allowing about 2 tablespoons for each. Mound it neatly without packing it hard; the filling should sit inside the rim rather than spilling down the sides. If the duxelle has loosened during storage, warm it separately and reduce it just until it holds a mound before filling. Ça se rattrape. A wet filling buried under crumbs does not.

5. 5

   Crumb and butter

   Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C) with a rack in the upper third. Sprinkle the fine fresh breadcrumbs evenly over the duxelle without pressing them down. Melt the remaining butter and spoon it across the crumbs so every top receives a little. Butter, not cheese, makes this crust; adding cheese would cover the artichoke and mushroom flavors the gratin is meant to concentrate.

6. 6

   Form the gratin

   Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, just until the filling is hot and melted butter bubbles around the bottoms. Finish with the Rapid Gratin treatment from Gratins (No. 268): move the dish beneath a fully heated broiler for 30 seconds to 2 minutes, watching without leaving the stove, until the crumbs are evenly butter-gold. If one patch colors early, rotate the dish and shield that spot loosely with foil. Do not wait for the artichokes to soften further; the color on top is your signal.

7. 7

   Pass the sauce

   While the gratin finishes, warm the sauce Madère over the lowest heat until it is fluid, glossy, and hot. If a skin forms, whisk gently until smooth. Pour it into a warmed sauceboat and serve it at the same time as the artichokes, allowing each guest to spoon the sauce beside the bottoms rather than over their crisp tops. Two bottoms make a generous serving. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose globe artichokes that feel heavy, with tight leaves and broad bases. The base matters more than impressive height because it becomes the cup holding the duxelle.
• •Fresh artichokes earn their place here because cooking them in the blanc is part of the dish. If the market offers only tired specimens, frozen artichoke bottoms make an honest weeknight cousin; thaw and dry them well, but understand that their texture will be softer.
• •Keep the sauce Madère separate until the plate. The contrast is the pleasure: crisp buttered crumb above, glossy sauce beside it, never a soaked lid.
• •Artichokes can make delicate wines taste oddly sweet. A dry, nutty white from the Jura has enough character for the vegetable, mushrooms, and Madeira sauce.

Advance Preparation

• •The Special Court-bouillon, or Blanc (No. 167), Duxelle for Stuffed Vegetables (Tomatoes, Mushrooms, &c.) (No. 224), and sauce Madère may be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated separately.
• •The artichoke bottoms may be poached 1 day ahead. Drain and cool them promptly while still firm, then cover tightly and refrigerate.
• •Fill the bottoms and arrange them in the buttered dish up to 6 hours ahead. Refrigerate covered, add the breadcrumbs and melted butter just before baking, and allow 3 to 4 extra minutes in the oven.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 235g)