Pluviers Dorés (Golden Plover)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch (30 cm) heavy ovenproof skillet
• •Fine-probe instant-read thermometer
• •Kitchen twine
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Small whisk

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the canapés

   Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C), with a rack in the upper-middle position. Melt 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a 12-inch (30 cm) ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Fry the pain de mie until crisp and deep gold on both sides, about 2 minutes per side, then set the canapés on a wire rack. Wipe loose crumbs from the skillet and place it in the oven for 8 minutes; the hot metal stands in for the turning spit's immediate heat.

2. 2

   Prepare the plovers

   While the skillet heats, inspect each bird under a strong light and feel carefully along any shot channels. Remove visible pellets and trim away bruised or heavily bloodshot flesh; reject any bird with a sour smell or sticky cavity. Do not rinse the birds, since splashing only spreads contamination. Pat them thoroughly dry, season inside and out with the salt and pepper, and tie the legs loosely together. Melt 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter and brush it over every surface.

3. 3

   Roast and turn

   Using dry oven mitts, lift out the hot skillet and arrange the plovers breast-side up without crowding. Roast for 6 minutes, turn each bird onto one side for 3 minutes, then onto the other side for another 3 minutes, basting with the butter in the pan at every turn. Return them breast-side up and begin checking immediately with a fine-probe thermometer. Remove each bird separately when both the inner thigh and thickest breast reach 165°F (74°C), usually after another 2 to 5 minutes. The skin should be taut and chestnut-bronze. If it darkens too quickly, cover only the breast with a small piece of foil; if one bird cooks ahead of the others, take it out rather than making it wait.

4. 4

   Rest on canapés

   Place each plover on a canapé set on a warm serving platter and rest uncovered for 5 minutes. The bread catches the buttery juices while the skin stays crisp. If a bird went beyond its temperature, rest it for only 3 minutes and serve it with a generous spoonful of jus; no sauce can uncook the breast, but quick service prevents the dryness from taking over.

5. 5

   Build the jus

   Pour away excess fat from the skillet, leaving the mahogany fond and about 1 teaspoon behind; discard any blackened butter solids, which taste bitter. Set the pan over medium-high heat, add ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) water, and scrape until every savory brown trace dissolves. Reduce by half, then take the skillet off the heat. Monter au beurre (finish by whisking in cold butter) with the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g), added a little at a time, until the jus shines and lightly coats a spoon. If greasy beads appear, stop and whisk in 1 teaspoon cold water away from the heat before continuing slowly. Ça se rattrape. Taste and correct the seasoning.

6. 6

   Serve without disguise

   Spoon the jus around the plovers and over the edges of the canapés, leaving the bronzed skin uncovered. Give each guest one whole bird and offer the remaining jus at the table. Small game has fine bones, so provide a sharp knife and let everyone eat attentively. Cooking well is not cooking fancy. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Golden plovers are protected or tightly regulated in many places. Buy only a species that may legally be taken and sold where you live, from a licensed game dealer who can identify its origin. Never use a protected American golden plover. If lawful birds aren't available, quail is the practical cousin, but it makes another dish.
• •Ask whether non-lead shot was used. Remove visible pellets and trim generously around damaged channels; if fragments are scattered widely through the flesh, discard that bird. Warn diners that a stray pellet can remain even after careful inspection.
• •Choose birds as close in size as possible, but trust the thermometer rather than the clock. Small differences matter with a bird this lean, so remove each plover when it reaches temperature and let the larger ones continue.
• •Serve with a soft potato or celeriac purée and plainly dressed bitter leaves. A light Pinot Noir or a fresh northern Rhône Syrah has enough earth and acidity for the dark game without burying it.

Advance Preparation

• •Up to 8 hours ahead, inspect and dry the fully prepared birds, then refrigerate them uncovered on a rack at 40°F (4°C) or colder. Season and butter them only when the oven is heating.
• •The canapés may be toasted up to 4 hours ahead. Re-crisp them for 3 minutes in a 350°F (180°C) oven before the birds are roasted.
• •The jus de rôti cannot be made ahead because it depends on the fresh pan fond. Measure its water and cold finishing butter in advance, then build it while the birds rest.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 230g)