Poularde Rossini

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Deep, heavy covered casserole sized closely to the poularde
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Wide 2-quart saucepan for reducing stock
• •12-inch heavy skillet for foie gras
• •4-cup timbale mold or deep heatproof bowl
• •12-inch round heatproof serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Poêle the poularde

   Cook the poularde according to Poëlings (No. 250), using that preparation at home scale. The cited method governs the butter cooking, basting, matignon, and final coloring. Confirm that the thickest part of the breast reaches 165°F (74°C) and the thigh reaches at least 175°F (79°C), then rest the bird, loosely covered, for 15 minutes. Time it so the rest overlaps with the final work on the stock and noodles.

   Resting is part of the cooking. Cut immediately and the juices run onto the board; give the bird its full quarter hour and they remain in the suprêmes.
2. 2

   Concentrate the jus

   While the poularde cooks, bring the chicken stock to a lively simmer in a wide saucepan. Reduce it uncovered to 1¼ cups (300 ml), skimming any foam, until it tastes deeply of chicken and lightly coats a spoon without becoming sticky. This is a jus, not a thickened sauce. If it reduces too far, loosen it with hot water a tablespoon at a time. Ça se rattrape. Remove it from the heat, stir in the truffle juice, and adjust the salt and white pepper. Cover and keep it hot without boiling, since hard boiling drives off the truffle's aroma.

3. 3

   Mold the noodles

   Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook 10 oz (285 g) of the fresh noodles until tender but still holding their shape, then drain them thoroughly. Toss at once with 3 tablespoons of the butter and a small pinch each of salt and white pepper. Pack them firmly into a warm, lightly buttered 4-cup timbale mold or deep bowl, cover, and hold in a warm place.

4. 4

   Crisp raw strands

   Separate the reserved raw noodle strands and cut them into manageable lengths. Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a small skillet over medium heat, add the strands, and toss steadily until golden, crisp, and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Break one to check it: there should be no pale, floury center. If the butter darkens before the noodles crisp, lower the heat and keep them moving. Drain on a warm plate and reserve for the timbale.

5. 5

   Slice the suprêmes

   Set a round serving platter in a low oven or rinse it with very hot water and dry it. Remove the legs and wings from the rested poularde and reserve them for another meal, then lift away the two suprêmes with their burnished skin intact. Slice each suprême diagonally into four thick, even pieces. Arrange the eight slices in an overlapping crown on the warm platter, leaving a narrow space between each for the foie gras. Cover loosely while you heat the pan.

6. 6

   Sear foie gras

   Pat the cold foie gras collops dry and season them lightly with salt and white pepper. Heat a wide, heavy skillet until very hot, add the clarified tablespoon of butter, then lay in the foie gras without crowding. Sear for 30 to 40 seconds on the first side and 20 to 30 seconds on the second, just until deeply bronzed outside and warm within. Work in two batches if necessary. If the first collop slumps and sheds a pool of fat before browning, lift the remaining pieces back into the cold, drain the pan, and heat it more fiercely before trying again. Ça se rattrape.

   Cold foie gras and a very hot pan are the whole technique. A lukewarm pan melts the liver before its surface can bronze.
7. 7

   Complete the crown

   Transfer each foie gras collop directly from the skillet into one of the spaces between the chicken slices, maintaining the alternating crown described by the dish. Pour the hot truffled chicken jus into the center of the crown, allowing a little to reach the chicken without drowning the crisp surface of the foie gras. The jus should gleam and pool freely; if it has tightened while waiting, loosen it with a spoonful of hot water before pouring.

8. 8

   Finish the timbale

   Invert the buttered noodle timbale onto a separate warm serving plate. Cover its top generously with the butter-crisp raw noodle strands, keeping the contrast between the tender molded noodles and their crisp crown. Bring both dishes to the table immediately, serving each guest alternating slices of suprême and foie gras with plenty of truffled jus and a spoonful of noodles. À table!

Chef Tips

• •A true poularde has more fat and a rounder breast than an ordinary young chicken. If none is available, choose a plump air-chilled roasting chicken of the same weight. The flavor will be slightly leaner, but careful poêling matters more than the label.
• •Buy whole-lobe foie gras or pre-cut searing slices, not pâté or mousse. Frozen collops are an honest choice and often easier to handle; thaw them slowly in the refrigerator and keep them cold until the skillet is ready.
• •Use bottled black truffle juice from a jar of preserved truffles for the truffle essence. Truffle oil does not behave like the concentrated cooking liquor called for here and can overwhelm the chicken stock.
• •The legs, wings, and carcass are not waste. Chill them promptly and serve the dark meat cold with mustard the next day, then use the carcass to begin another stock.
• •Pour a mature white Burgundy or a dry Champagne. Both have enough breadth for the foie gras and enough freshness to keep the butter, noodles, and truffled jus lively.

Advance Preparation

• •Reduce the chicken stock up to a day ahead and chill it covered. Reheat it gently, then add the truffle juice only shortly before serving so its aroma remains clear.
• •Slice and portion the foie gras up to 2 hours ahead. Keep the collops in a single layer, covered and very cold, until the skillet is fully heated.
• •The tender noodle timbale can be molded up to 1 hour ahead and held covered in a warm place. Crisp the reserved strands within 30 minutes of serving and keep them uncovered.
• •Do not fully cook and reheat the poularde. Time Poëlings (No. 250) so its 15-minute rest gives you the window to finish the noodle garnish, heat the jus, and prepare the platter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 520g)