Jambon Froid à la Gelée

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5 to 6-quart narrow heavy pot
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Fine-mesh sieve and clean cheesecloth
• •9 by 5-inch loaf tin
• •Small board or second loaf tin for pressing
• •Two full pantry tins totaling about 3 pounds (1.4 kg)
• •Wire rack and rimmed tray
• •8-inch (20 cm) square dish
• •Chilled oval serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Poach the ham

   Rinse the tied ham under cold water and place it in a narrow, heavy pot. Add enough cold water to cover it by 1 inch (2.5 cm), about 10 cups (2.4 L / 2.4 kg). Bring the water up slowly, skimming away any grey foam, then hold it between 180 and 185°F (82 and 85°C), where the surface barely trembles. Cook until the center reaches 150°F (66°C), or any higher temperature specified by the producer, about 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. Never let it boil hard; violent heat tightens the meat and clouds the liquor you need for the gelée.

   A narrow pot keeps the ham submerged without demanding a lake of water. Too much water gives you a weak liquor and a pale-tasting aspic.
2. 2

   Wrap and press

   Lift the cooked ham from its liquor and let it stand for 5 minutes. Reserve the liquor. Remove the trussing, then roll the hot ham tightly in a clean, dampened, lint-free tea towel or doubled cheesecloth and tie it securely at several points. Set it seam-side down in a loaf tin, place a small board or second loaf tin over it, and add about 3 pounds (1.4 kg) of evenly distributed weight. Press for 45 minutes at room temperature, then refrigerate under the weight for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Do not leave the warm ham out for longer than 1 hour. Pressure replaces the shape once supplied by the bone and gives you close, even slices.

3. 3

   Measure the liquor

   Strain the cooking liquor through a fine sieve and skim away as much fat as possible. Taste it cold enough not to burn you. It should be distinctly savory but pleasant by the spoonful; if it tastes aggressively salty, combine equal parts liquor and fresh water. Measure 5 cups (1.2 L) into a clean pot and cool it below 100°F (38°C). The ham supplies the flavor, so there is no need to disguise it with an improvised stock.

4. 4

   Clarify the liquor

   Whisk the egg whites into the cooled liquor. Set the pot over medium-low heat and stir gently, scraping the bottom, until pale curds rise and begin joining into a raft. Stop stirring as soon as the raft forms. Make a small opening through it with a spoon and hold the liquor at the gentlest simmer for 15 minutes. Ladle it carefully through a damp cloth set inside a fine sieve, without pressing the curds. If the liquor remains cloudy, pass it through a fresh damp cloth once more. Ça se rattrape. Measure 4 cups (960 ml) of the clarified liquor, adding a little boiled water if necessary.

5. 5

   Set the gelée

   Cool 1 cup (240 ml) of the clarified liquor completely, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over it, and leave it for 10 minutes to bloom. Warm the remaining 3 cups (720 ml) until hot but not boiling, then pour them over the bloomed gelatin and stir until every grain dissolves. Spoon a teaspoon onto a chilled saucer and refrigerate it for 5 minutes; it should set firmly enough to cut. Pour 2½ cups (600 ml) into an 8-inch (20 cm) square dish for the dice and the remaining 1½ cups (360 ml) into a bowl for glazing. Refrigerate both for at least 4 hours.

6. 6

   Skin the ham

   Remove the completely cold ham from its press and unwrap it. With a thin, sharp knife, lift away the rind without cutting deeply into the meat, then trim the fat to an even layer about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Pat every surface thoroughly dry and place the ham on a wire rack over a chilled tray. Moisture makes aspic slide, and this surface must be dry before the first spoonful touches it.

7. 7

   Build the glaze

   Turn the bowl of set gelée into a small saucepan and warm it over the lowest heat only until melted. Set the pan over ice and stir until the gelée is cold and lightly syrupy, about 68°F (20°C). Spoon a thin coat over the chilled ham and refrigerate it for 8 to 10 minutes, then repeat until the surface is evenly covered and glossy, usually three or four coats. Collect any clean gelée from the tray and reuse it. If it runs off, cool it a little further; if it sets in ridges, warm it by a few degrees and smooth on another coat. Ça se rattrape.

   Several thin coats make a clear, even finish. One heavy pour traps bubbles, forms drips, and usually lands beneath the ham instead of upon it.
8. 8

   Dish and serve

   Cut the aspic from the square dish into fine ¼-inch (6 mm) dice with a sharp knife. Transfer the glazed ham to a chilled oval platter and surround it generously with the dice. A paper ham frill may be fitted to the narrow end if you enjoy the old service dress, but it is decoration, not technique. Chill the finished platter for 30 minutes, then let it stand for 10 minutes before carving into thin slices. The gelée should remain cool, clear, and softly yielding. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for a mild, wet-cured ham or gammon joint that still needs cooking, with its rind intact. Avoid spiral-sliced ham, which cannot be pressed into a whole smooth form, and dry country ham, whose concentrated salt makes an unpleasant gelée.
• •Taste the cooking liquor before setting it. Cold magnifies excessive salt in aspic, and dilution is easier before the gelatin goes in. Add water until the liquor tastes like a well-seasoned broth, not seawater.
• •The fine aspic dice are not idle decoration. Their cut faces catch the light, provide an extra spoonful of savory gelée with each slice, and complete the source method after the ham has been evenly coated.
• •Serve with cornichons, Dijon mustard, good bread, and a dry Loire Chenin Blanc. The wine's acidity meets the cured pork cleanly without overwhelming the delicate aspic.

Advance Preparation

• •Poach and press the ham the evening before serving. Clarify and set the gelée while the ham chills, then skin and glaze the ham the following morning.
• •The clarified gelée can be prepared and set up to 2 days ahead. Keep it covered in the refrigerator, then melt only the portion required for glazing.
• •The fully glazed platter may be completed up to 24 hours ahead. Cover it loosely without letting the wrapping touch the surface. Refrigerate leftovers promptly and eat them within 3 days; freezing spoils the texture of the aspic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 290g)