Torta di Nocciole delle Langhe

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •9-inch springform pan
• •Food processor
• •Electric mixer or sturdy whisk
• •Large flexible spatula for folding
• •Rimmed baking sheet for toasting nuts

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the hazelnuts

   Spread the hazelnuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast in a 350°F oven for 12 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan once halfway through. The nuts are ready when the skins have darkened and cracked, and your kitchen smells intensely of toasted hazelnuts. The aroma will tell you before the timer does.

   Do not skip toasting. Raw hazelnuts taste flat and slightly bitter. Toasting transforms them completely, releasing the oils that give this cake its soul.
2. 2

   Remove the skins

   While the hazelnuts are still hot, bundle them in a clean kitchen towel. Rub vigorously, letting the friction loosen the papery skins. Most will come off. Some will stubbornly cling. This is fine. Perfect is the enemy of done. Pick out the cleaned nuts and let them cool completely before grinding.

3. 3

   Grind the hazelnuts

   Pulse the cooled hazelnuts in a food processor with two tablespoons of the measured sugar. The sugar absorbs the oils and prevents the nuts from becoming paste. Pulse in short bursts until you have a coarse meal with some texture remaining. You are not making hazelnut butter. Stop before you think you should.

   The texture of the ground nuts determines the texture of the cake. Too fine becomes dense and heavy. Some variation in particle size gives the finished cake interest.
4. 4

   Prepare the pan

   Butter a 9-inch springform pan generously. Dust with flour, tapping out the excess. Line the bottom with parchment if you are cautious. The cake is fragile when warm. Heat oven to 350°F.

5. 5

   Beat the yolks

   In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar using a whisk or electric mixer. Beat until the mixture is pale yellow, thick, and falls in ribbons when the whisk is lifted. This takes 4 to 5 minutes by machine, longer by hand. The volume should nearly triple. Fold in the ground hazelnuts until just combined.

6. 6

   Whip the whites

   In a clean, dry bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt until they hold soft, glossy peaks. The peaks should droop gently when you lift the whisk. Do not beat until stiff and dry. Overbeaten whites deflate when folded and produce a tough cake.

7. 7

   Fold the batter

   Stir one-quarter of the whites into the hazelnut mixture to lighten it. This sacrifice loosens the batter. Now fold in the remaining whites in two additions, using a large spatula and turning the bowl as you work. Cut down through the center, sweep along the bottom, fold over the top. Repeat until no white streaks remain, but stop the moment they disappear. Every extra fold costs you volume.

8. 8

   Bake the cake

   Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top gently. Bake until the cake is golden brown, springs back when pressed lightly in the center, and a toothpick inserted comes out with just a few moist crumbs. This takes 40 to 45 minutes. The top will crack slightly. This is correct and beautiful.

9. 9

   Cool and serve

   Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes before releasing the springform ring. The cake is delicate when warm. Transfer to a serving plate and cool completely. Dust generously with confectioners' sugar just before serving. The sugar will absorb into the surface over time, so dust again if it sits.

Chef Tips

• •Piedmontese hazelnuts labeled 'Nocciola Piemonte IGP' are worth seeking from Italian specialty importers. The flavor difference is substantial, like the difference between good tomatoes and San Marzano.
• •Eggs must be at room temperature. Cold whites do not whip to full volume, and the temperature difference causes the batter to deflate when folded together.
• •The cake tastes even better the next day, when the hazelnut flavor has intensified and the texture has settled. Store wrapped at room temperature, never refrigerated.
• •Some cooks add a tablespoon of rum or a teaspoon of vanilla. I do not. The hazelnut speaks clearly enough without interpretation.

Advance Preparation

• •Hazelnuts can be toasted and skinned up to one week ahead. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Grind them only on the day of baking.
• •The finished cake keeps beautifully for three days at room temperature, wrapped well. It does not need refrigeration and should not receive it. Cold dulls the hazelnut flavor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 75g)