Torreznos de Soria

Torreznos de Soria belong to Soria, in Castilla y Leon: thick strips of cured pork belly, rind still on, fried until the skin rises into blisters and the meat turns salty, juicy, and crisp at the edges. This is not fresh bacon in a hurry. The cure and the rind are what make it the dish.

The method that decides it is the slow start. Put the strips rind-side down in cold oil and let the heat climb gently. The skin needs time to dry, bubble, and puff before the meat browns. Rush it and you get hard rind and greasy belly. Give it patience, then finish hot. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.

If you are far from Soria, look for Spanish panceta adobada or cured pork belly with the skin attached. If all you can find is unsmoked cured pork belly, rub it lightly with pimenton de la Vera, garlic, and salt the day before, then leave it uncovered in the fridge so the rind dries. It won't carry the same Sorian cure, but it will behave in the pan. Pésalo, no lo adivines, especially with salt.

Serve them straight away, with bread and something sharp to drink. The Margin in my notebook says only this: skin first, no rushing. That is the whole argument.