Roasted Potatoes with Goose Fat

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large roasting pan or heavy-duty rimmed sheet pan
• •Large pot for boiling (at least 6 quarts)
• •Colander
• •Long-handled tongs
• •Thin metal spatula for flipping

Instructions

1. 1

   Peel and cut potatoes

   Peel the potatoes and cut them into roughly equal pieces, about 2 inches across. Uniformity matters here because you want them to finish at the same time. Too small and they'll dry out. Too large and the centers stay dense. If using smaller potatoes, halve them. Larger ones get quartered.

   Yukon Golds offer the best balance of waxy exterior and fluffy interior. Maris Pipers are the British standard. Russets work but fall apart more easily during the roughing step.
2. 2

   Parboil until tender

   Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water by two inches. Add enough salt to make the water taste like the sea (about 2 tablespoons per quart). Bring to a boil, then reduce to a vigorous simmer. Cook for 15 to 18 minutes, until a knife slides through with almost no resistance. You want them slightly overdone. The edges should look feathered and threatening to crumble. This is correct.

   Starting in cold water ensures even cooking from edge to center. Hot water would seal the exterior before the inside cooks through.
3. 3

   Drain and steam dry

   Drain the potatoes in a colander and let them sit for 5 minutes, shaking occasionally. Steam will rise and escape. This step removes surface moisture that would otherwise prevent crisping. You'll see the edges go from glossy wet to matte and chalky. That's the starch setting up for its transformation.

4. 4

   Rough up the edges

   Return potatoes to the empty pot. Cover with the lid and shake vigorously five or six times. You want to batter them against each other and the pot walls. The edges should roughen and fray, some bits falling off entirely. These craggy surfaces become your crispy bits. More texture means more crunch. Don't be gentle. The potatoes can take it.

   If your potatoes are too soft to survive shaking, use a fork to rough up each one individually. Drag the tines across the surface to create furrows.
5. 5

   Heat the goose fat

   While potatoes steam, preheat your oven to 425°F with a rack in the upper third. Add the goose fat to a large roasting pan or rimmed sheet pan. Place in the oven and heat until the fat shimmers and ripples, about 10 minutes. It should be approaching its smoke point. When you see the first wisps of smoke from the oven, you're ready.

6. 6

   Add potatoes to hot fat

   Working quickly and carefully, add the potatoes to the screaming hot fat. They should sizzle aggressively on contact. If they don't, your fat isn't hot enough. Use tongs to turn each potato, coating all sides in the fat. Spread them in a single layer with space between each one. Crowding creates steam. Steam prevents crisping. Season with the fine sea salt and pepper.

   Wear long sleeves and stand back when adding potatoes. Hot fat will splatter. A splatter screen can help if you're nervous, but speed matters more than protection here.
7. 7

   Roast until golden

   Roast for 25 minutes without touching them. Then use a thin spatula to flip each potato, scraping up any bits that have stuck. The undersides should be deep golden brown with darker spots where the craggy edges caught. Add the rosemary sprigs and garlic cloves now if using. Roast another 20 to 25 minutes, flipping once more halfway through, until all sides are bronzed and the edges look almost burnt in spots. They're not burnt. They're perfect.

8. 8

   Season and serve

   Transfer potatoes to a warmed serving platter using a slotted spoon, leaving excess fat behind. Scatter with flaky sea salt immediately while they're still glistening. Tuck the roasted rosemary and garlic around the edges if you used them. Serve without delay. These potatoes wait for no one, and their crispness diminishes with every passing minute.

Chef Tips

• •Source your goose fat from specialty grocers, butcher shops, or online. Duck fat makes an acceptable substitute with a slightly stronger flavor. In Britain, they sell rendered goose fat in jars at every supermarket. American cooks may need to plan ahead.
• •The fat can be strained through cheesecloth after cooking and reused two or three times. Store refrigerated in a glass jar. It will solidify and keep for months. Label it clearly so no one mistakes it for something else.
• •For the crispiest results, use potatoes that have been stored in a cool, dark place for at least a week. Fresh new potatoes contain too much moisture and won't crisp properly.
• •If roasting alongside a goose or turkey, position the potatoes on a rack above to catch drippings. The added flavor is extraordinary, though the timing requires attention.
• •A heavy roasting pan conducts heat more evenly than a thin sheet pan. The potatoes brown better when the pan itself stays hot between flipping.

Advance Preparation

• •Potatoes can be parboiled and roughed up to 4 hours ahead. Spread on a sheet pan and refrigerate uncovered. The exterior will dry further, which actually improves crisping. Add 5 minutes to your initial roasting time to account for the cold start.
• •For large gatherings, parboil the day before. Refrigerate overnight in a single layer. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before roasting.
• •Goose fat can be heated in the roasting pan while you attend to other dishes. It will hold at temperature in the oven for up to 20 minutes without burning.
• •Once roasted, potatoes can be held in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes, though they lose some crispness. For large parties, roast in batches and combine on a warmed platter just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 350g)