
Chef Isabel
Acedías Fritas de Cádiz
Acedías fritas belong to Cádiz: tiny wedge sole, salted, dusted in frying flour, and dropped into very hot olive oil so the rims crisp while the fish stays tender.
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Roncal is Navarra's mountain sheep cheese: firm, raw-milk, aged until dense and gently piquant. Serve it simply, tempered and cut in wedges, with walnuts doing the quiet work beside it.
Roncal Navarro is Navarra's mountain sheep cheese, from the Roncal valley in the Pyrenees, made firm from raw sheep's milk and aged until the paste is ivory, dense, and gently piquant. That firm, dry bite is what separates it from a softer table cheese or a smoky Idiazabal next door. You serve it in wedges with walnuts, not hidden under syrup and not melted into a sauce.
The method is hardly a method, so don't make it clever: temperature and cut. Take the wedge out early enough for the chill to leave it, then cut from the centre toward the rind so each piece carries the whole cheese. Too cold and it tastes mute. Too warm and it sweats. At cool room temperature, the sheepy, nutty smell opens, and the knife leaves a clean, slightly crumbling face.
If Roncal is not in your market, choose an aged Manchego curado or viejo, or an unsmoked Idiazabal if the shop has it. Manchego is rounder and sweeter; Idiazabal can bring smoke if it is the smoked kind. Good cheeses, different names. No hace falta haber pisado España, you do not need to have set foot in Spain, but you do need to call the substitute what it is.
In the Margin beside this one I wrote only this: less decoration, better cheese. About 40g per person is enough for an appetizer. The walnuts should taste fresh, the bread should be plain, and the Roncal should be allowed to speak.
Roncal belongs to the Valle de Roncal in the Navarrese Pyrenees, around villages such as Isaba, Uztárroz, Urzainqui, Garde, Vidángoz, Burgui, and Roncal, where sheep milk was preserved as a hard, transportable cheese. Its Denominación de Origen, granted in 1981, was the first for a cheese in Spain and tied the name to raw milk from Rasa Aragonesa and Latxa sheep, a firm pressed paste, and a minimum aging. The cheese carries the mountain larder plainly: milk turned dense and keeping, sharp enough to wake the mouth, sturdy enough to cross a winter.
Quantity
240g
in one wedge, rind intact
Quantity
90g
Quantity
120g
sliced thin
Quantity
250g
sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Roncal DOP raw sheep's milk cheesein one wedge, rind intact | 240g |
| shelled walnuts | 90g |
| membrillo (quince paste) (optional)sliced thin | 120g |
| crusty country bread (optional)sliced | 250g |
Leave the Roncal in one piece and take it from the refrigerator 45 to 60 minutes before serving. Unwrap it, then cover it loosely with its paper or a clean cloth so the cut face does not dry. Aim for cool room temperature, about 18 to 21 C, 65 to 70 F. Cold cheese tastes waxy and quiet; cheese left in heat sweats fat and turns greasy.
Set out a wooden board or a plain plate. Weigh 90g walnuts and taste one; a stale walnut will spoil good Roncal faster than a clumsy knife. If using membrillo, cut it into small thin pieces and keep it to the side. The cheese leads. The sweet paste is a companion, not a blanket.
Use a sturdy cheese knife and cut the Roncal into 6 wedges of about 40g each, from the point toward the rind, so every person gets the centre and the firmer edge. Leave the rind attached for shape, but do not eat it if it is too hard or waxed. Pésalo, no lo adivines: a measured piece lets the cheese taste generous without turning the board heavy.
Lay the wedges slightly apart, pile the walnuts close, and set the bread and membrillo beside them if using. Do not melt it, grate it, or drown it in honey. Then you taste the covering, not Roncal. Serve at once, while the cheese is open and fragrant. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 117g)
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