
Chef Dean
Grilled Salmon Collar with Ponzu
The fisherman's reward: rich, fatty salmon collar charred over high heat until the skin shatters, served with a bright citrus ponzu that cuts through the richness like a cold Pacific breeze.
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Silken Pacific cod draped in sweet white miso, broiled until the glaze caramelizes into a burnished lacquer that shatters at the touch of a fork. This is where Japanese precision meets Pacific Northwest abundance.
The waters of the Pacific Northwest have fed civilizations for thousands of years. Native peoples built entire cultures around the salmon runs, the halibut banks, the endless abundance of a cold, clean sea. When Asian immigrants arrived to work the canneries and fishing boats, they brought techniques that transformed how we think about seafood. The miso-glazed fish you see on restaurant menus today descends directly from that cultural exchange.
Nobu Matsuhisa made black cod with miso famous, and deservedly so. But sablefish commands a premium that puts it out of reach for most home cooks. Pacific cod offers the same buttery texture, the same ability to absorb a sweet miso marinade, at a fraction of the cost. More importantly, it's sustainably harvested from Alaskan waters by fishermen who understand that the ocean's gifts require stewardship, not exploitation.
The technique here is simple but unforgiving. You marinate the fish until the miso penetrates the flesh, then broil it close to the flame until the sugars caramelize into that signature lacquered crust. Watch it carefully. The line between perfectly caramelized and burnt is measured in seconds. Your nose will tell you when you're close. Your eyes must tell you when to pull it.
This dish works equally well on a Tuesday night with steamed rice or as the centerpiece of a dinner party. The miso does most of the work while you sleep. All you provide is attention at the finish.
Quantity
4 (6 oz each)
about 1-inch thick
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the pan
Quantity
2
thinly sliced on the bias
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Pacific cod fillets, skin removedabout 1-inch thick | 4 (6 oz each) |
| white miso paste (shiro miso) | 1/2 cup |
| mirin | 3 tablespoons |
| sake | 2 tablespoons |
| granulated sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 2 teaspoons |
| vegetable oilfor the pan | 1 tablespoon |
| scallionsthinly sliced on the bias | 2 |
| black sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| limecut into wedges | 1 |
Combine the white miso, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk continuously until the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes smooth and pourable, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the rice vinegar and sesame oil. The marinade should coat a spoon thickly. Let it cool to room temperature before using. Rushing this step with warm marinade will begin cooking the fish before you intend to.
Pat the cod fillets completely dry with paper towels. Moisture prevents the marinade from adhering properly. Place the fish in a shallow dish or large zip-lock bag. Pour the cooled marinade over the fillets, turning to coat all surfaces thoroughly. The miso should form an even layer about 1/8-inch thick on all sides. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours, though 24 to 48 hours produces the most pronounced flavor. The fish will firm slightly and take on a pale golden hue as the miso works its way into the flesh.
Position your oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element. This distance is not negotiable. Too close and the sugars will burn before the fish cooks through. Too far and you'll never achieve that lacquered crust. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and brush lightly with vegetable oil. Remove the cod from the marinade and gently shake off the excess. You want a thin, even coating remaining on the fish, not thick globs that will burn. Place the fillets on the prepared pan with at least 2 inches between them for even heat circulation.
Preheat your broiler on high for a full 5 minutes. Open the oven door briefly to release excess heat, then slide in the sheet pan. Broil for 4 to 5 minutes without opening the door. The surface will begin to bubble and take on color. Now watch carefully. You're looking for deep amber spots that spread and connect across the surface, creating that signature mottled, caramelized appearance. This happens quickly, usually between the 5 and 7 minute mark depending on your broiler's intensity. The fish is done when the glaze has caramelized to a burnished mahogany in spots and the flesh flakes easily when pressed gently at its thickest point. Total broiling time runs 6 to 8 minutes for 1-inch fillets.
Remove the pan from the oven and let the fish rest for 2 minutes. The fillets will be fragile from the heat. Use a thin spatula to transfer them carefully to warmed plates. Scatter the sliced scallions over the top in a casual pile, allowing some to fall onto the plate. Sprinkle with black sesame seeds for contrast and texture. Serve immediately with lime wedges alongside. The acid from a squeeze of lime cuts through the sweet miso and brightens every bite.
1 serving (about 165g)
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