
Chef Lupita
Arroz a la Oaxaqueña
Oaxaca's red rice, stained with tomato and fried in lard, steamed with carrots, ejotes, black beans, and epazote. The side that anchors a Oaxacan family meal and earns its place beside the main.
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Guanajuato's nopalitos a la mexicana, cooked in manteca with tomato, onion, xoconostle, serrano, and chilcuague from the Sierra Gorda for that sharp Bajio tingle.
Guanajuato, especially the Bajio towns between Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende, and the Sierra Gorda, cooks nopales with the dryness of the land in mind. The cactus is not decoration here. It is food that survives heat, poor soil, and thin pockets.
A la mexicana means tomato, white onion, and green chile because those are the colors of the flag, but in Guanajuato the dish earns its place with xoconostle and chilcuague. The xoconostle gives a clean sour bite that lime cannot copy. The chilcuague root tingles on the tongue and wakes up the whole cazuela. Use too much and you'll know. The senoras in the market will laugh, but they'll respect that you tried.
You cook the nopales first to drive off their baba, that slippery mucilage people complain about because they didn't cook them properly. Then you saute the recaudo in manteca de cerdo until the tomato collapses and the onion sweetens. La manteca es el sabor. No me vengas con atajos. This is a weeknight dish, yes, but weeknight does not mean careless.
Serve it in a clay cazuela with warm corn tortillas, frijoles bayos, and salsa if the table wants more heat. Cada estado, su propia cocina. This one tastes like Guanajuato.
Chilcuague, Heliopsis longipes, is a native root associated with the Sierra Gorda of Guanajuato and Queretaro, valued for its numbing, peppery compound spilanthol and documented in early colonial descriptions of central Mexican medicinal and culinary plants. Xoconostle, the sour fruit of certain prickly pear cactus species, has been used across the Bajio and central Mexico since pre-Columbian times as an acidulant for salsas, stews, and cactus dishes. Nopales a la mexicana became a home-kitchen staple after tomato, onion, and green chile were codified as everyday pantry companions, but each region marks the dish with its own acid, fat, and chile.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cleaned, thorns removed, cut into 1/2-inch strips
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 medium
for boiling the nopales
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
2
stemmed and finely chopped
Quantity
3
finely chopped
Quantity
2
peeled, seeds removed, diced small
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
finely ground, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped
Quantity
for serving
warmed
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh nopalescleaned, thorns removed, cut into 1/2-inch strips | 1 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| white onionfor boiling the nopales | 1/2 medium |
| fresh epazote sprig | 1 |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| white onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| fresh chile serranostemmed and finely chopped | 2 |
| Roma tomatoesfinely chopped | 3 |
| xoconostlespeeled, seeds removed, diced small | 2 |
| dried chilcuague rootfinely ground, plus more to taste | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh cilantrochopped | 1/4 cup |
| hand-pressed corn tortillas (optional)warmed | for serving |
| frijoles bayos de la olla (optional) | for serving |
Scrape the nopales carefully with a small knife to remove every thorn and dark eye. Trim the edges and cut the paddles into strips. Rinse quickly under cold water. Do not soak them. Nopales already carry enough water, and soaking only makes them more slippery.
Put the nopales in a pot with the salt, the half onion, and the epazote sprig. Add just enough water to barely cover. Simmer uncovered for 12 to 15 minutes, until the nopales turn olive green and the thick baba rises to the surface. Uncovered is the point. The liquid needs room to thicken and cook off.
Drain the nopales in a colander and discard the onion and epazote. Rinse the nopales briefly with warm water, then let them drain well for 5 minutes. You want them tender but not watery. A wet nopal will dilute the tomato and make the cazuela taste tired.
Melt the manteca de cerdo in a wide clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped white onion and cook for 4 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it softens and smells sweet. Add the chile serrano and cook 1 minute more. The chile should brighten, not brown.
Add the chopped Roma tomatoes and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until they collapse into the onion and the fat turns orange at the edges. This is where the flavor builds. Raw tomato sitting on cooked nopales is not a guiso. Cook it down.
Stir in the diced xoconostle and cook for 3 minutes, just until it softens but still keeps its bite. Do not replace it with lime juice. Xoconostle is fruit, acid, and cactus memory all at once. It belongs to this Bajio plate.
Add the drained nopales and the ground chilcuague. Stir well so the root touches every strip of cactus. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the mixture is glossy and the nopales are coated in the tomato. Taste for salt. The chilcuague should tingle at the back of the tongue, not numb your whole mouth. Respect it.
Turn off the heat and fold in the chopped cilantro. Spoon the nopales into a warm clay cazuela and serve with corn tortillas and frijoles bayos de la olla. No flour tortillas. Those belong to another geography. Guanajuato gives you corn, cactus, xoconostle, and chilcuague. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 360g)
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