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Created by Chef Lupita
Puebla's baroque convent pork loin, pierced with ham, almonds, raisins, olives, and clove, then braised in tomato, chile ancho, and red wine for a holiday table.
Puebla, in the Angelopolis valley, is where this lomo belongs. Not the border. Not a cantina plate. Puebla. The city of convent bells, Talavera tile, and kitchens where nuns turned the Old World pantry into Mexican architecture: almonds, raisins, olives, capers, cinnamon, clove, wine, all disciplined by tomato and chile ancho.
This is a conventual dish in the Poblano register, tied to the kitchens of Santa Rosa, Santa Clara, and Santa Monica, where women cooked for feast days, patrons, bishops, and their own cloistered calendars. The technique is mechar: piercing the pork loin and threading it with ham, tocino, almonds, raisins, olives, and clove so every slice tells you what happened before it reached the table. No me vengas con atajos. If you simply pour sauce over plain pork, you have missed the point.
The chile ancho does not make this hot. It gives color, dried fruit depth, and a Puebla accent. The red wine and clove do the baroque work. The manteca carries the sauce. A home cook in Puebla would recognize the shine, the sweetness against the salt, the Talavera platter brought out because this is holiday food, not Tuesday food. This is a 32-state cuisine, and Puebla knows exactly who it is.
My mother did not cook this often. She was Jalisciense, practical, and suspicious of anything that dirtied too many pans. But in her notebook she wrote beside a Poblano lomo recipe: "for Christmas, worth the trouble." She was right. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Quantity
1, 3 to 3 1/2 pounds
with a thin fat cap if possible
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| center-cut pork loinwith a thin fat cap if possible | 1, 3 to 3 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | 2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
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