
Chef Makoa
Mac Salad (Hawaiʻi Local Plate-Lunch Macaroni Salad)
The Hawaiʻi Local plate-lunch scoop, soft elbow macaroni folded creamy with mayo, carrot, and grated onion, sitting beside two scoops rice like it belongs there, because it does.
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Salted salmon massaged by hand with tomato, sweet onion, green onion, and crushed ice, the cool Hawaiian lūʻau bowl that brightens the table beside poi, laulau, poke, and kālua puaʻa.
At the lūʻau table back home, the deep foods sit heavy with memory: poi from Hāloa, our elder brother; laulau wrapped in lūʻau leaf; kālua puaʻa from the imu, the Hawaiian earth oven. Then there is this cold little bowl, lomi lomi salmon, and it wakes the whole plate up. Not ancient like the kalo. Not canoe food. Still Hawaiian, because Hawaiʻi took what came by ship and made it answer to our table.
Lomi means to rub, knead, massage. You don't stir this like a stranger. You get your clean hands in there and work the salted salmon into the tomato and onion until the fish softens, the tomato gives a little juice, and everything turns cold, salty, and bright. That hand work matters. The bowl should taste like somebody's auntie made it early, tucked it on ice, and brought it out when the poi was ready.
This is Hawaiʻi's hand, clear as day. The cousins across the Triangle have their own fish bowls: Sāmoa's oka iʻa with coconut cream and lemon, Tonga's ʻota ʻika, Tahiti's ʻia ota, Cook Islands ika mata, and our Hawaiian poke with limu and ʻinamona. Same fish, different bowl. Lomi lomi salmon belongs to the mission and trade side of the Hawaiian table, but no look down on it. The islands eat the old foods and the newer foods together, plate lunch and poi, Spam and ʻulu, salted salmon beside kālua. Keeper, not gatekeeper.
So make it cold, make it generous, and don't make it precious. Use good salted salmon, ripe tomatoes, sweet onion if you can get it, and crushed ice right before serving. Eat what you have, but honor whose table you're at.
Lomi lomi salmon is Hawaiian, but it is not a pre-contact canoe-crop dish: salmon, tomatoes, and onions all arrived after Western contact through trade, mission, and provisioning routes in the 1800s. Salted salmon from the North Pacific became part of the Hawaiian lūʻau spread because it kept well, traveled by ship, and gave a sharp, cold counterpoint to poi, laulau, and kālua puaʻa. That mix of deep food and adopted food is one honest story of Hawaiʻi, not a failure of the old table.
Quantity
8 ounces
skin and pin bones removed, diced small
Quantity
3
seeded and diced small
Quantity
1/2
diced small
Quantity
3
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
plus more for serving if needed
Quantity
as needed
for soaking the salmon if very salty
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| salted salmonskin and pin bones removed, diced small | 8 ounces |
| ripe tomatoesseeded and diced small | 3 |
| sweet onion, preferably Maui oniondiced small | 1/2 |
| green onionsthinly sliced | 3 |
| crushed iceplus more for serving if needed | 1/2 cup |
| cold waterfor soaking the salmon if very salty | as needed |
Taste a tiny piece of the salted salmon. It should be salty enough to season the whole bowl, not so salty it makes your eyes pinch. If it is fierce, soak it in cold water for 15 to 30 minutes, then drain and pat it dry.
Cut the salmon into small even dice, about a quarter inch. Lomi lomi is not big chunks like poke. You want little pieces that can spread through the tomato and onion, so every spoonful carries salt, fish, and cold juice together.
Seed the tomatoes so the bowl stays bright instead of watery, then dice them small. Dice the sweet onion the same size and slice the green onions thin. The tomato should be ripe and soft enough to give juice when you press it, but not collapsing.
Put the salmon, tomato, sweet onion, and green onion in a chilled bowl. With clean hands, gently lomi, massage and fold, until the tomato gives a little juice and the salmon softens into the mix. No smash it to mush. You are waking it up, not punishing it.
Fold in the crushed ice right before serving, letting it loosen the juices and make the bowl properly cold. Taste once more. If it needs salt, let the salmon speak first before you add anything.
Serve cold in a wooden ʻumeke, a Hawaiian carved wooden bowl, or a plain chilled bowl set on lauhala. Spoon it beside poi, laulau, poke, kālua puaʻa, or whatever your table has today. The cold salt and tomato cut through the rich foods and bring everybody back for another bite.
1 serving (about 120g)
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