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Mayonnaise de Volaille

Mayonnaise de Volaille

Created by Chef Juliette

Based on No. 1712, Mayonnaise de Volaille, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier

Cold roast chicken, ciseled lettuce, and a shining coat of homemade mayonnaise, arranged with capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts, then tossed at the table as the canon intends.

Salads
French
Picnic
Make Ahead
Weeknight
35 min
Active Time
10 min cook45 min total
Yield4 servings

Mayonnaise de volaille (cold chicken with mayonnaise) teaches the architecture of a composed salad: season the leaves before you cover them. The lettuce carries vinegar and salt, the poultry brings body, and the mayonnaise binds everything only when the serving spoons finally turn it together. If the leaves go in bland, no decoration can rescue them.

The classical entry assumed cold boiled or roast fowl waiting in the larder, a saucier's mayonnaise already finished, and enough hands to decorate a brigade-sized bowl. Your home equivalent is leftover chicken, one hand-whisked emulsion, and a broad salad bowl for four. The staff and grand quantity were scaffolding, so they go; no stockpot or salamander belongs here. The ciseled dome, skinned collops, smooth mayonnaise, garnishes, and toss at the table are the dish, so they stay.

Built properly, it comes cold and generous: an ivory dome set with briny capers, olives, anchovy, golden egg quarters, and crisp lettuce hearts, then broken open with serving spoons. One cook, one stove, one evening. Dry the lettuce completely before you season it; water dilutes the vinegar and makes the mayonnaise slide, and that is the one step to guard.

Mayonnaise de volaille belongs to the bourgeois cold table of Paris and to the garde-manger, the cold station of the classical French kitchen, where cooked poultry was recast as a composed salad. It is not chopped chicken salad: ciseled lettuce is seasoned and domed beneath clean collops of fowl, cloaked in mayonnaise, decorated, and mixed only when served. Capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts show how a thrifty use of cold poultry traveled into formal service without surrendering its character as a salad.

The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.

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Ingredients

large eggs

Quantity

2

large pasteurized egg yolks

Quantity

2

at room temperature

Dijon mustard

Quantity

1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)

at room temperature

white wine vinegar

Quantity

1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)

divided: 2 teaspoons for the mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon for the lettuce

fine salt

Quantity

1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g)

divided

white pepper

Quantity

to taste

neutral oil

Quantity

3/4 cup (180 ml / 165 g)

at room temperature

cold water (optional)

Quantity

1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)

for loosening or rescuing the mayonnaise

small sucrine or Little Gem lettuces

Quantity

3 heads (about 12 oz / 340 g total)

washed and thoroughly dried

cold boiled or roast chicken meat

Quantity

3 cups (710 ml / 450 g)

cleared of skin and cut into thin collops

capers

Quantity

2 tablespoons (30 ml / 18 g)

drained and dried

small pitted black olives

Quantity

1/3 cup (80 ml / 50 g)

drained and dried

anchovy fillets

Quantity

6

drained

Equipment Needed

  • Broad 2-quart (2 L) salad bowl
  • Medium mixing bowl
  • Balloon whisk
  • Small saucepan
  • Sharp slicing knife
  • Two large salad servers

Instructions

  1. 1

    Cook the eggs

    Lower the 2 whole eggs into a small saucepan of gently boiling water and cook for 10 minutes. Transfer them immediately to cold water, let them cool completely, then peel and quarter them lengthwise. Cooling stops the yolks before a grey rim forms and gives clean quarters for the decoration.

  2. 2

    Whisk the mayonnaise

    Whisk the pasteurized yolks with the Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) of the vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) of the salt, and a little white pepper until smooth. Add the neutral oil drop by drop at first, whisking constantly; once the emulsion becomes thick and glossy, add the rest in a fine thread. If it separates into oil and curds, stop. Ça se rattrape: whisk 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) cold water in a clean bowl, then add the broken mayonnaise a teaspoon at a time until it becomes smooth before whisking in the remainder. The finished mayonnaise should hold a soft ribbon and spread without running.

    Room-temperature yolks, mustard, and oil join more willingly. If the finished mayonnaise becomes stiff after chilling, whisk in cold water a few drops at a time.
  3. 3

    Cisel the lettuce

    Separate the broad outer lettuce leaves from the compact hearts. Cisel the broad leaves, cutting them crosswise into narrow ribbons about 1/4 inch (6 mm) wide, as evenly as you can. Quarter the small hearts lengthwise and reserve them for decorating. The leaves must be thoroughly dry; if a towel pressed against them comes away damp, dry them again, because water weakens both seasoning and mayonnaise.

  4. 4

    Cut the collops

    Clear the cold chicken of every piece of skin, loose fat, cartilage, and bone. Cut the meat across the grain into neat collops, thin slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Keep the slices cold while you prepare the bowl; cold meat holds its shape and gives the composed salad its clean structure.

  5. 5

    Season the dome

    Mound the ciseled lettuce in the center of a broad salad bowl, shaping it into a firm, rounded dome without crushing it. Sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt evenly over the leaves. The seasoning belongs underneath the poultry, where it can reach the lettuce before the mayonnaise seals the dome. If vinegar pools at the bottom, lift out the lettuce, dry the bowl and leaves, then rebuild it before continuing.

  6. 6

    Arrange and cover

    Lay the cold chicken collops over the lettuce in overlapping rows, covering the dome from its base to its crown. Spoon the mayonnaise over the chicken and smooth it gently with the back of the spoon into an even ivory coat. It should cloak the poultry, not run into a puddle; if it has tightened in the cold, loosen it with only a few drops of cold water.

  7. 7

    Decorate the salad

    Arrange the capers, pitted olives, anchovy fillets, quartered eggs, and quartered lettuce hearts over and around the mayonnaise according to fancy. Keep the pattern generous and legible, with each garnish easy to take when the salad is mixed. This is decoration meant to be eaten, not protected.

  8. 8

    Toss at table

    Carry the complete dome to the table before mixing it. Set two large serving spoons down to the bottom of the bowl and fold the seasoned lettuce, chicken, mayonnaise, and garnishes together as you would any salad, turning gently until everything is lightly coated. Serve at once, while the lettuce still has its crisp bite. À table!

Chef Tips

  • Cold roast chicken gives deeper flavor, while gently boiled chicken gives a paler, more delicate salad. Either follows the entry faithfully. Use breast and thigh together if you have them, and clear away every scrap of skin before slicing.
  • Sucrine or Little Gem supplies both broad leaves for the cisel and compact hearts for decorating. If only full romaine is available, use its outer leaves for the dome and quarter the tight inner heart lengthwise.
  • The original entry reaches for finished mayonnaise. For a picnic or a faster weeknight assembly, 1 scant cup (240 ml / 220 g) of good prepared mayonnaise made with egg and oil is an honest change in labor. The dressed lettuce, layered collops, smooth covering, and final table toss must remain.
  • Dry the capers, olives, and anchovies after draining. Wet garnishes streak the mayonnaise and loosen its surface, while dry ones sit cleanly and keep their flavor distinct.
  • For a picnic, use pasteurized yolks and carry the salad or its separate components below 40°F (4°C). Keep it in an ice-packed cooler until serving, and do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Advance Preparation

  • Cook and chill the chicken up to 2 days ahead. Keep it whole or in large pieces until assembly so the cut surfaces remain moist.
  • Make the mayonnaise up to 2 days ahead with pasteurized yolks and refrigerate it in a covered container. Whisk in a few drops of cold water if it firms too much.
  • Hard-cook and peel the eggs a day ahead. The lettuce may be washed, dried, and ciseled up to 6 hours ahead if wrapped in a dry towel and chilled.
  • For a picnic, transport the lettuce, chicken, mayonnaise, and garnishes in separate cold containers. Build the dome shortly before serving; once salted and vinegared, the lettuce begins to soften.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 300g)

Calories
690 calories
Total Fat
57 g
Saturated Fat
8 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
49 g
Cholesterol
290 mg
Sodium
875 mg
Total Carbohydrates
4 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
1 g
Protein
40 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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