
Chef Juliette
Chicken Salad
Cold roast or poached chicken with fine ribbons of lettuce, dressed at the final moment with oil and vinegar: a composed salad whose freshness depends entirely on timing.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1712, Mayonnaise de Volaille, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Cold roast chicken, ciseled lettuce, and a shining coat of homemade mayonnaise, arranged with capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts, then tossed at the table as the canon intends.
Mayonnaise de volaille (cold chicken with mayonnaise) teaches the architecture of a composed salad: season the leaves before you cover them. The lettuce carries vinegar and salt, the poultry brings body, and the mayonnaise binds everything only when the serving spoons finally turn it together. If the leaves go in bland, no decoration can rescue them.
The classical entry assumed cold boiled or roast fowl waiting in the larder, a saucier's mayonnaise already finished, and enough hands to decorate a brigade-sized bowl. Your home equivalent is leftover chicken, one hand-whisked emulsion, and a broad salad bowl for four. The staff and grand quantity were scaffolding, so they go; no stockpot or salamander belongs here. The ciseled dome, skinned collops, smooth mayonnaise, garnishes, and toss at the table are the dish, so they stay.
Built properly, it comes cold and generous: an ivory dome set with briny capers, olives, anchovy, golden egg quarters, and crisp lettuce hearts, then broken open with serving spoons. One cook, one stove, one evening. Dry the lettuce completely before you season it; water dilutes the vinegar and makes the mayonnaise slide, and that is the one step to guard.
Mayonnaise de volaille belongs to the bourgeois cold table of Paris and to the garde-manger, the cold station of the classical French kitchen, where cooked poultry was recast as a composed salad. It is not chopped chicken salad: ciseled lettuce is seasoned and domed beneath clean collops of fowl, cloaked in mayonnaise, decorated, and mixed only when served. Capers, olives, anchovies, eggs, and lettuce hearts show how a thrifty use of cold poultry traveled into formal service without surrendering its character as a salad.
Quantity
2
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)
at room temperature
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
divided: 2 teaspoons for the mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon for the lettuce
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g)
divided
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
3/4 cup (180 ml / 165 g)
at room temperature
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)
for loosening or rescuing the mayonnaise
Quantity
3 heads (about 12 oz / 340 g total)
washed and thoroughly dried
Quantity
3 cups (710 ml / 450 g)
cleared of skin and cut into thin collops
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 18 g)
drained and dried
Quantity
1/3 cup (80 ml / 50 g)
drained and dried
Quantity
6
drained
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggs | 2 |
| large pasteurized egg yolksat room temperature | 2 |
| Dijon mustardat room temperature | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) |
| white wine vinegardivided: 2 teaspoons for the mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon for the lettuce | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| fine saltdivided | 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) |
| white pepper | to taste |
| neutral oilat room temperature | 3/4 cup (180 ml / 165 g) |
| cold water (optional)for loosening or rescuing the mayonnaise | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) |
| small sucrine or Little Gem lettuceswashed and thoroughly dried | 3 heads (about 12 oz / 340 g total) |
| cold boiled or roast chicken meatcleared of skin and cut into thin collops | 3 cups (710 ml / 450 g) |
| capersdrained and dried | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 18 g) |
| small pitted black olivesdrained and dried | 1/3 cup (80 ml / 50 g) |
| anchovy filletsdrained | 6 |
Lower the 2 whole eggs into a small saucepan of gently boiling water and cook for 10 minutes. Transfer them immediately to cold water, let them cool completely, then peel and quarter them lengthwise. Cooling stops the yolks before a grey rim forms and gives clean quarters for the decoration.
Whisk the pasteurized yolks with the Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) of the vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) of the salt, and a little white pepper until smooth. Add the neutral oil drop by drop at first, whisking constantly; once the emulsion becomes thick and glossy, add the rest in a fine thread. If it separates into oil and curds, stop. Ça se rattrape: whisk 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) cold water in a clean bowl, then add the broken mayonnaise a teaspoon at a time until it becomes smooth before whisking in the remainder. The finished mayonnaise should hold a soft ribbon and spread without running.
Separate the broad outer lettuce leaves from the compact hearts. Cisel the broad leaves, cutting them crosswise into narrow ribbons about 1/4 inch (6 mm) wide, as evenly as you can. Quarter the small hearts lengthwise and reserve them for decorating. The leaves must be thoroughly dry; if a towel pressed against them comes away damp, dry them again, because water weakens both seasoning and mayonnaise.
Clear the cold chicken of every piece of skin, loose fat, cartilage, and bone. Cut the meat across the grain into neat collops, thin slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Keep the slices cold while you prepare the bowl; cold meat holds its shape and gives the composed salad its clean structure.
Mound the ciseled lettuce in the center of a broad salad bowl, shaping it into a firm, rounded dome without crushing it. Sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt evenly over the leaves. The seasoning belongs underneath the poultry, where it can reach the lettuce before the mayonnaise seals the dome. If vinegar pools at the bottom, lift out the lettuce, dry the bowl and leaves, then rebuild it before continuing.
Lay the cold chicken collops over the lettuce in overlapping rows, covering the dome from its base to its crown. Spoon the mayonnaise over the chicken and smooth it gently with the back of the spoon into an even ivory coat. It should cloak the poultry, not run into a puddle; if it has tightened in the cold, loosen it with only a few drops of cold water.
Arrange the capers, pitted olives, anchovy fillets, quartered eggs, and quartered lettuce hearts over and around the mayonnaise according to fancy. Keep the pattern generous and legible, with each garnish easy to take when the salad is mixed. This is decoration meant to be eaten, not protected.
Carry the complete dome to the table before mixing it. Set two large serving spoons down to the bottom of the bowl and fold the seasoned lettuce, chicken, mayonnaise, and garnishes together as you would any salad, turning gently until everything is lightly coated. Serve at once, while the lettuce still has its crisp bite. À table!
1 serving (about 300g)
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