
Chef Graziella
Tonno e Fagioli alla Genovese
Liguria's answer to the Tuscan bean and tuna salad, where fresh basil takes the place of excessive onion and the quality of your olive oil matters more than anything else you do.
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The composed salad of the Italian Riviera, where sweet shrimp meet tender potatoes, crisp green beans, and just enough pesto to remind you that Genoa invented it.
Liguria clings to the coast in a narrow crescent, mountains pressing against the sea. There is little land for farming, so Ligurians learned to make the most of what they have: the sea's bounty, terraced gardens of basil and vegetables, and olive trees that somehow grow on nearly vertical slopes. This salad is their summer, arranged on a plate.
The combination may seem unlikely to those who think of pesto only with pasta. But Ligurians have always understood that their basil sauce belongs wherever it can brighten a dish. Here, it serves as a whisper, not a shout. The shrimp remain the center. The potatoes and green beans provide substance. The pesto ties them together with its perfume of basil and pine nuts.
Each component must be cooked separately and with precision. Overcooked shrimp become rubber. Undercooked potatoes refuse to absorb the dressing. Mushy green beans have no purpose. You dress everything while still warm, so the vegetables drink in the olive oil and the flavors marry before the salad cools. This is not difficult, but it requires attention. Simple does not mean careless.
Ligurian cooks have combined seafood with pesto since at least the 19th century, when the fishing villages along the Riviera developed their own variations of Genoa's famous sauce. This salad emerged from the cucina povera tradition of stretching expensive shrimp with humble potatoes and garden vegetables, creating a dish substantial enough for a light supper yet elegant enough for a festa.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds (about 24)
shell-on
Quantity
1 pound
such as Yukon Gold
Quantity
12 ounces
trimmed
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1/3 cup
preferably Ligurian
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
minced fine
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2 tablespoons
lightly toasted
Quantity
small handful
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large shrimpshell-on | 1 1/2 pounds (about 24) |
| waxy potatoessuch as Yukon Gold | 1 pound |
| green beans (fagiolini)trimmed | 12 ounces |
| pesto Genovese | 1/4 cup |
| extra virgin olive oilpreferably Ligurian | 1/3 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotminced fine | 1 small |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| pine nutslightly toasted | 2 tablespoons |
| basil leavesfor finishing | small handful |
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water by two inches. Add a generous amount of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until a knife slides through the center with no resistance, 20 to 25 minutes depending on size. The potatoes should not be falling apart. Drain and let cool just until you can handle them. Peel while still warm and cut into half-inch dice.
While the potatoes cook, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the trimmed green beans and cook until tender but still bright green and slightly crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. They should bend without snapping but retain their shape. Drain and spread on a towel to dry. Do not shock in ice water. You want them warm.
Bring a fresh pot of salted water to a gentle simmer. The water should barely bubble, not boil violently. Add the shell-on shrimp and poach until just pink and curled, 2 to 3 minutes. The shells protect the flesh and add flavor. Remove immediately and let cool just enough to handle. Peel and devein, leaving the tails intact if you prefer the presentation.
In a small bowl, whisk together the pesto, olive oil, lemon juice, and minced shallot. The dressing should be thin enough to coat but not so thick that it clumps. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. The lemon should brighten the pesto without dominating.
Place the warm diced potatoes in a large bowl. Drizzle with half the dressing and toss gently. The warm potatoes will absorb the flavors. Add the green beans and another portion of the dressing. Toss again. Let the vegetables rest for 10 minutes at room temperature to marry the flavors.
Arrange the dressed vegetables on a large serving platter. Nestle the shrimp among them, pink against the green and gold. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the shrimp. Scatter the toasted pine nuts across the top and finish with small basil leaves. Serve at room temperature, not cold from the refrigerator. The flavors are best when the chill is off.
1 serving (about 225g)
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