
Chef Dean
Biscuits and Sausage Gravy
Tender, flaky buttermilk biscuits split and drowning in a rich, peppery sausage gravy made the way your great-grandmother intended. This is the dish that built the South, one breakfast at a time.
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Dry-cured country ham pan-fried in butter until the edges turn mahogany and crisp, served with optional red-eye gravy made from the drippings and strong black coffee. This is the breakfast that built the South.
Country ham is not city ham. If you've only eaten the pink, wet, honey-glazed stuff from the supermarket, you've been missing one of America's great culinary traditions. True country ham is dry-cured for months, sometimes over a year, developing an intensity that approaches prosciutto. It's salty, funky, and absolutely magnificent when treated with respect.
The technique couldn't be simpler. You fry slices in butter until the edges caramelize and the fat renders crisp. The whole process takes ten minutes. What you serve alongside it is where personal history enters the picture. My people always wanted fried eggs cooked in the ham drippings, biscuits for sopping, and grits to catch the red-eye gravy.
Red-eye gravy mystifies outsiders. It's nothing more than coffee deglazed in the ham drippings, maybe a touch of sugar to balance the salt. The name comes from the eye of fat that floats on top, or perhaps from the fact that you need it after a night that left you red-eyed. Either explanation works. What matters is that the thin, dark gravy brings everything on the plate together.
This is breakfast at an unhurried pace. The kind of morning where coffee cups get refilled twice, where someone is always at the stove frying another egg, and the only schedule that matters is how long until everyone has eaten their fill.
Quantity
2 (about 1/2 inch thick, 8-10 ounces each)
Quantity
3 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1/2 cup
brewed and hot
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| country ham steaks | 2 (about 1/2 inch thick, 8-10 ounces each) |
| unsalted butterdivided | 3 tablespoons |
| strong black coffee (optional)brewed and hot | 1/2 cup |
| light brown sugar (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Place the ham steaks in a large skillet and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then drain immediately. This brief blanch removes surface salt without washing away the ham's character. Pat the steaks bone-dry with paper towels. Moisture is the enemy of a proper sear.
Using a sharp knife, make shallow cuts through the fat along the curved edge of each steak, spacing them about an inch apart. This prevents the ham from curling into a dome as it cooks, ensuring flat contact with your pan and even caramelization across the surface.
Set your largest cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add two tablespoons of butter and let it melt, swirling to coat the bottom. When the foam subsides and you smell something nutty, you're ready. The butter should be golden but not brown.
Lay the ham steaks in the skillet. They should sizzle immediately upon contact. If they don't, your pan isn't hot enough. Cook undisturbed for three to four minutes until the bottom develops deep amber edges and golden-brown spots across the surface. Resist the urge to move them.
Turn the steaks using a sturdy spatula. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter to the pan, letting it pool around the edges. Cook another three minutes until the second side matches the first. The fat edge should be rendered and crisp, almost translucent at the thinnest points.
Transfer the ham steaks to a warm platter. They need only a minute or two of rest. Unlike fresh pork, cured ham won't release a flood of juices. It's simply waiting for you to decide whether you're making red-eye gravy or eating immediately.
Leave the skillet over medium heat with all its fond and rendered fat. Pour in the hot coffee. It will sputter and steam dramatically. Scrape up every browned bit from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Let the mixture bubble for two minutes until it reduces slightly and the color deepens to burnished mahogany. Spoon this thin, intensely flavored gravy over the ham and onto your grits.
1 serving (about 85g)
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