
Chef Dean
Country Ham Steaks
Dry-cured country ham pan-fried in butter until the edges turn mahogany and crisp, served with optional red-eye gravy made from the drippings and strong black coffee. This is the breakfast that built the South.
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Tender, flaky buttermilk biscuits split and drowning in a rich, peppery sausage gravy made the way your great-grandmother intended. This is the dish that built the South, one breakfast at a time.
This is American cooking at its most elemental. Flour, fat, milk, pork, and pepper. Five ingredients that have sustained farmworkers, railroad crews, and Sunday morning families for two centuries. The dish originated in the Southern Appalachians where Scots-Irish settlers adapted their biscuit traditions to what the land provided: rendered pork fat, soft winter wheat, and the necessity of stretching a little meat into a meal for many.
The gravy is a study in transformation. One pound of sausage becomes a sauce that feeds six people generously. That's not poverty cooking. That's genius. The rendered fat carries the seasoning, the flour provides body, and the milk brings it all together into something greater than its parts. Black pepper is not optional. It should announce itself with every bite.
The biscuits require a different mindset. Where the gravy forgives, biscuits demand precision. Cold butter. Cold buttermilk. A light hand. Overwork that dough and you'll produce hockey pucks. Handle it gently, fold it just enough, and you'll pull apart layers that shatter and steam when you break them open.
I've watched students approach this recipe with the wrong kind of respect, treating it as simple because the ingredients are humble. Nothing could be further from the truth. This dish rewards attention. Give it yours.
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup (1 stick)
frozen
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 pound
not links
Quantity
1/4 cup
for gravy
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for brushing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 2 1/2 cups |
| baking powder | 1 tablespoon |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted butterfrozen | 1/2 cup (1 stick) |
| cold buttermilk | 1 cup |
| breakfast sausagenot links | 1 pound |
| all-purpose flourfor gravy | 1/4 cup |
| whole milk | 3 cups |
| freshly cracked black pepperplus more to taste | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| melted butterfor brushing | 2 tablespoons |
Position your oven rack in the upper third and preheat to 450°F. In a large bowl, whisk together 2 1/2 cups flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until thoroughly combined. This takes thirty seconds of real whisking. The leaveners must be evenly distributed or your biscuits will rise unevenly.
Remove your butter from the freezer. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the frozen butter directly into the flour mixture. Work quickly. Toss the butter shreds with the flour using your fingertips, coating each piece. You should see distinct butter pieces throughout, ranging from pea-sized to small pebbles. This is what creates your layers.
Make a well in the center and pour in the cold buttermilk. Using a fork, stir from the center outward, gradually incorporating the dry ingredients. Stop when the dough just comes together in a shaggy mass. You should see dry spots. This is correct. Overworked dough means tough biscuits.
Turn the dough onto a well-floured surface. With floured hands, pat it into a rough rectangle about one inch thick. Fold it in thirds like a business letter. Pat it down again to one inch thick. Repeat this folding process two more times. This creates the flaky layers without overworking the gluten. After the final fold, pat the dough to exactly 3/4-inch thickness.
Using a 2 1/2-inch round cutter dipped in flour, cut straight down without twisting. Twisting seals the edges and prevents proper rise. Press the scraps together gently, pat to thickness, and cut remaining biscuits. Place them on an ungreased baking sheet with edges touching. Biscuits that cuddle rise taller.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until the tops are golden brown and the sides look set. The moment you smell that toasty, buttery aroma filling your kitchen, check them. Brush the hot tops immediately with melted butter. They should release easily from the pan.
While biscuits bake, set a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon or spatula. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, continuing to break up any large chunks. The meat should be well-browned, not just gray. Listen for the sizzle to deepen and watch for golden edges on the crumbled bits. Do not drain the fat.
Sprinkle the 1/4 cup flour over the sausage and rendered fat. Stir constantly for two full minutes. The flour must cook in the fat to eliminate that raw, pasty taste. You'll see it change from white to a pale blonde color. Keep stirring. This is your roux, the backbone of the gravy.
Reduce heat to medium-low. Pour in about one cup of milk while stirring vigorously with a whisk. The mixture will seize up immediately into a thick paste. This is expected. Continue whisking while adding the remaining milk in a steady stream. Whisk constantly until the gravy begins to bubble and thicken, 5 to 7 minutes. It should coat a spoon and leave a clear trail when you drag your finger across the back.
Remove from heat. Stir in the black pepper and salt. Now taste. The gravy should have a pronounced pepper bite that cuts through the richness. Add more pepper if needed. This is not a subtle sauce. It should wake you up. Adjust salt to your preference, keeping in mind that the sausage contributed some already.
Split the warm biscuits in half and place them cut-side up on warm plates, two per person for generous portions. Ladle the gravy generously over the biscuits, letting it pool around them and cascade down the sides. Finish with an extra grind of black pepper. Serve immediately while everything steams and the biscuits still shatter.
1 serving (about 350g)
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