Bombe Moldave

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.5-liter metal bombe mould or deep metal bowl, about 18 cm wide
• •Home ice cream maker
• •Small heavy saucepan
• •Digital sugar thermometer
• •Electric hand mixer or stand mixer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Flexible spatula
• •Large bowl for an ice bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cold

   Set a clean 1.5-liter metal bombe mould or deep metal bowl in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Chill the mixer bowl and beaters as well. If your ice cream maker uses a frozen canister, it must be frozen solid before you begin; a canister that sloshes will give you pineapple slush, not ice.

2. 2

   Cook the pineapple

   Combine the strained pineapple purée, ¾ cup sugar, and ½ cup water in a saucepan. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then bring the purée to at least 85°C or 185°F and hold it there for 1 minute. This cooking is the foundation of the dessert: it disables the fresh pineapple enzyme before the fruit shell meets the cream filling. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and salt, then chill the mixture rapidly over an ice bath until thoroughly cold.

   If the purée catches on the pan floor, don't scrape the darkened patch into the fruit. Pour the clean upper portion into another saucepan and finish heating it there. Ça se rattrape.
3. 3

   Churn and clothe

   Churn the cold pineapple mixture until it holds the soft, dense texture of freshly made sorbet. Reserve about one-quarter in a covered freezer container for sealing the bombe. Working quickly, press the remainder over the bottom and sides of the frozen mould in an even layer about 1.5 cm thick. This chemiser follows the coating principle in Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916), translated from liquid jelly rocked over broken ice to pliable Pine-apple Ice pressed against frozen metal. Freeze the clothed mould for 45 minutes.

   If the pineapple ice slides toward the bottom, it is too soft. Return both ice and mould to the freezer for 10 minutes, then patch the walls with a cold spoon. Thin spots can always be filled before the center goes in.
4. 4

   Cook the syrup

   Put the ½ cup sugar and ¼ cup water in a small heavy saucepan. Warm gently until the sugar dissolves, then stop stirring and cook the syrup to 118°C or 244°F. Meanwhile, beat the pasteurized yolks until thick and pale. With the mixer running at medium-low speed, pour the syrup in a very thin thread down the inside of the bowl, keeping it away from the moving beaters and your hands. Increase the speed and whip until the pâte à bombe is voluminous, glossy, and no warmer than room temperature, about 7 minutes.

   If the syrup leaves a few hard threads in the yolks, pass the warm mixture through a fine sieve and continue whipping. Don't throw it out. The smooth base underneath is still perfectly usable.
5. 5

   Finish the center

   Set aside 2 tablespoons of the cold cream, then whip the remainder to soft peaks that bend at the tip. Stir the Curaçao and reserved unwhipped cream into the cooled pâte à bombe. Fold in one-third of the whipped cream to loosen the base, then fold in the rest with broad strokes until no white streaks remain. The filling should be light but flowing, not stiff.

   The pâte à bombe must be cool before the cream enters. If it still feels warm, chill it for 10 minutes and whisk briefly before folding. If the whipped cream turns grainy, work in the reserved liquid cream by hand until the texture softens, then continue.
6. 6

   Fill and seal

   Pour the Curaçao Bombe-preparation into the frozen pineapple shell, stopping about 1.5 cm below the rim. Tap the mould once against a folded towel to settle the filling without knocking out its air. Soften the reserved Pine-apple Ice for a few minutes, then spread it over the filling to make a complete base. Level it, cover the mould tightly, and freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

7. 7

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter. Wrap the frozen mould in a warm, well-wrung towel for 8 to 10 seconds, place the platter over it, and invert decisively. If the bombe doesn't release, repeat with the towel for 3 seconds at a time; don't leave it warming continuously. If the surface softens before release, return the whole mould to the freezer for 20 minutes. Rest the unmoulded bombe for 5 minutes, then slice with a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between cuts. À table!

   The first slice tells you whether the freezing was complete. A properly frozen bombe holds a sharp pineapple-gold rim around a softer ivory center, with neither layer running into the other.

Chef Tips

• •Fresh pineapple has the brightest perfume, but good canned pineapple packed in juice is an honest choice outside its season. Drain it well, purée it smooth, and still heat it with the syrup so the water content and flavor are properly concentrated.
• •Use dry orange Curaçao, not a blue-colored liqueur. The source calls for Curaçao specifically, and its bitter-orange edge keeps the rich pâte à bombe from tasting flat.
• •Metal matters. A thin aluminum bowl or bombe mould freezes quickly and releases cleanly; thick glass is slow to freeze and vulnerable to sudden temperature changes.
• •Without an ice cream maker, freeze the pineapple base in a shallow metal tray and beat it vigorously every 30 minutes until fine and pliable, usually four times. The shell will be slightly denser, but its intent remains intact.

Advance Preparation

• •Cook and chill the pineapple base up to 2 days ahead. Keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator, then whisk it smooth before churning.
• •Complete the bombe at least 6 hours before serving. An overnight freeze gives the cleanest division between the pineapple shell and Curaçao center.
• •The finished Bombe Moldave keeps well for 3 days, tightly covered in the freezer. Unmould it up to 1 hour ahead, return it to the freezer on its chilled platter, then temper it for 5 minutes before slicing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 165g)