Bombe Camargo

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.5-liter metal bombe mould or deep stainless steel bowl
• •Ice cream machine
• •Stand mixer with whisk attachment
• •Small saucepan
• •Instant-read or sugar thermometer
• •Fine mesh sieve
• •Small offset spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill the mould

   Set a 1.5-liter metal bombe mould or deep round metal bowl in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Chill the platter for unmoulding as well. A metal mould takes the cold quickly and releases cleanly; glass holds on stubbornly and asks for more warming than this dessert can afford.

2. 2

   Infuse the coffee syrup

   Combine the 2 cups water and ⅞ cup sugar in a saucepan. Bring just to a boil, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then remove from the heat and immediately add the crushed coffee beans. Cover and infuse for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve without pressing the grounds, then cool the syrup over an ice bath and refrigerate until thoroughly cold. Infuse the coffee into the syrup hot, never by adding cold brewed coffee afterward; loose water is what turns a fine ice grainy.

3. 3

   Churn the coffee ice

   Churn the cold coffee syrup until it is dense, smooth, and firm enough to mound on a spoon, usually 20 to 30 minutes. If it remains soupy because the machine bowl has warmed, scrape it into a shallow metal pan, freeze for 20 minutes, then churn again. Ça se rattrape. Transfer about 1 cup of the coffee ice to a covered container for sealing the bombe and keep it frozen.

4. 4

   Clothe the mould

   Using the book's cross-reference, Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916), for the action rather than its savoury contents, clothe the mould with the remaining coffee ice. Press it over the bottom and sides with a cold spoon or small offset spatula, making an even layer about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick and leaving the centre hollow. Hold the mould toward the light to find thin patches, repair them with more coffee ice, then freeze for at least 30 minutes. This even shell is the step that must stay.

5. 5

   Whip the pâte à bombe

   Put the yolks and the scraped vanilla seeds in the bowl of a stand mixer and begin beating at medium speed. Combine the ⅔ cup sugar and ¼ cup water in a small saucepan, add the scraped vanilla pod, and boil without stirring until the syrup reaches 245°F (118°C). Remove the pod. With the mixer running, pour the syrup in a thin stream between the whisk and the side of the bowl, never directly onto either, then beat at high speed until the pâte à bombe is thick, pale, and no warmer than room temperature. If a little syrup hardens into threads on the bowl wall, leave it there rather than scraping crystals into the smooth base; the pâte à bombe itself is still sound.

6. 6

   Fold in the cream

   Whip the cold cream to soft peaks that curl at their tips. Fold one-third into the pâte à bombe to loosen it, then fold in the remainder with broad strokes until no white streaks remain. The yolk base must be cool before the cream enters. If the mixture loosens because the base was still warm, refrigerate it for 10 minutes, then fold gently once more. Do not beat it harder, which only knocks out the air you need.

7. 7

   Fill and seal

   Spoon the vanilla pâte à bombe into the frozen coffee shell, pressing gently enough to close large air pockets without crushing its volume. Stop about ½ inch (1.25 cm) below the rim and level the surface. Spread the reserved coffee ice over the filling to seal it completely, patching the join where the cap meets the shell. Cover closely and freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

8. 8

   Unmould and serve

   Dip the mould in warm water, about 95°F to 104°F (35°C to 40°C), for 5 seconds, dry it, and invert it onto the chilled platter. If it does not release, wrap the mould briefly in a warm towel; repeated dipping melts the coffee shell before the centre lets go. Return a softened bombe to the freezer for 10 minutes. Cut with a warm, dry knife and serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use freshly roasted coffee beans with a clear, rounded aroma, not beans roasted until oily and bitter. Coarsely crush them just before infusing so the hot syrup draws fragrance without filling the ice with sediment.
• •A smooth metal bombe mould is easiest, but a deep stainless steel mixing bowl works honestly. Measure its capacity with water before beginning; a vessel much larger than 1.5 liters leaves the shell too thin.
• •Without an ice cream machine, freeze the coffee syrup in a shallow metal pan until solid, let it stand for 5 minutes, break it into small pieces, and process until smooth. The shell will be slightly coarser, but it will hold the proper construction.
• •The hot syrup cooks and stabilizes the yolk foam, but cooks serving anyone medically vulnerable should begin with pasteurized yolks. Technique first, and safety with it.

Advance Preparation

• •The coffee syrup can be infused, strained, and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead. Keep it covered so it does not borrow aromas from the refrigerator.
• •Assemble and freeze the bombe at least 6 hours before serving. Overnight gives the cleanest slices, and the covered bombe keeps well for 3 days.
• •Chill the serving platter and dessert plates for 30 minutes before unmoulding. Cold porcelain buys you a few calm minutes at the table.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 160g)