Bombe Abricotine

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5-cup (1.2-litre) metal bombe mould or deep round stainless-steel bowl
• •Ice cream machine, or shallow metal tray and food processor
• •Stand mixer or electric hand mixer
• •Sugar thermometer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Flexible spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill the mould

   Set the freezer to its coldest practical setting. Chill a 5-cup (1.2-litre) metal bombe mould or deep round bowl, along with the bowl and whisk for the cream, for at least 30 minutes. Metal conducts cold quickly and helps the apricot ice seize against the wall before it can slide to the bottom.

   A deep stainless-steel mixing bowl makes an honest home substitute for a bombe mould. Choose one with a smooth interior and a rounded base so the frozen dessert releases cleanly.
2. 2

   Churn and chemiser

   Heat the sugar and water for the apricot ice just until the sugar dissolves, then cool the syrup completely. Stir in the chilled apricot purée and lemon juice, refrigerate until very cold, and churn until firm but still spreadable. Without an ice cream machine, freeze the mixture in a shallow metal tray until firm at the edges and soft in the centre, then beat it smooth in a food processor. Chemiser, meaning to clothe the mould, using the rocking principle from Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916): spoon the soft apricot ice into the chilled mould in batches, turning and pressing it into an even layer about ⅜ inch (1 cm) thick. Reserve about 1 cup (240 ml / 250 g) for the closing layer. Freeze the clothed mould for 45 minutes. If the ice slides, freeze it for 10 minutes and press it back into place; if it has hardened and cracks, let it stand for 3 minutes before smoothing. Ça se rattrape.

3. 3

   Stew and drain

   Combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice for the stewed apricots in a wide saucepan and heat until clear. Add the apricot quarters and hold them at the gentlest simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, turning once, until tender but still holding their shape. Lift them into a sieve and leave them to drain over a bowl for at least 30 minutes, then spread them on a clean towel, blot gently, and chill completely. Loose syrup freezes into hard crystals, so don't hurry this. If the fruit collapses, drain it well and use it as a thin ribbon between the creamy layers rather than throwing it away.

4. 4

   Whip the pâte

   Begin the pâte à bombe, the hot-syrup yolk base, by whisking the yolks until pale and thick. Heat its sugar and water without stirring until the syrup reaches 244°F (118°C). With the mixer running, pour the syrup in a fine stream down the inside of the bowl, clear of the whisk, then beat until the mixture forms a thick ribbon and the bowl no longer feels warm, about 6 to 8 minutes. If the syrup crystallizes before pouring, add 1 tablespoon of water and warm it gently until clear again. Beat in the Kirsch. Whip the cold cream to soft peaks, fold one-third into the yolk base to loosen it, then fold in the remainder without knocking out its volume. If the yolk base is still warm or turns loose after the Kirsch, set the bowl over ice and whisk until cool and thick before adding the cream. Warm pâte à bombe melts the whipped cream, but caught at this stage it can still be rescued.

5. 5

   Layer the bombe

   Spoon one-third of the Kirsch pâte à bombe into the firm apricot shell and level it gently. Scatter over half the cold, thoroughly drained apricots, keeping them just clear of the outer shell. Repeat with another third of pâte à bombe and the remaining fruit, then cover with the final third of pâte à bombe. Tap the mould once against a folded towel to settle any large air pockets, leaving about ⅜ inch (1 cm) below the rim. Let the reserved apricot ice soften just enough to spread, then close the bombe with an even layer from edge to edge. If the filling has softened the shell or risen above it, freeze the open mould for 15 minutes before adding this cap. Cover tightly and freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

6. 6

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter. Dip only the outside of the mould in warm water for 4 to 5 seconds, wipe it dry, invert it onto the platter, and lift gently. If it holds fast, repeat the warm dip for 2 seconds rather than pulling at the bombe. Return the unmoulded dessert to the freezer for 15 minutes if its surface has softened. Let the bombe stand at cool room temperature for 8 to 10 minutes before cutting. Dip a long knife in hot water and wipe it dry between slices so the apricot shell and ivory centre remain distinct. Serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose apricot purée without added sugar so you control the texture of the ice. When good fresh apricots aren't in season, unsweetened frozen purée and frozen apricot halves are the honest answer; hard, pale fresh fruit will give you neither perfume nor colour.
• •Kirsch is a dry cherry eau-de-vie, not a sweet cherry liqueur. Keep it to the measured amount. More alcohol may sound generous, but it keeps the centre from freezing firmly enough to slice.
• •Drain the stewed fruit until no syrup gathers beneath the sieve, then blot it. This isn't brigade fussiness. It is the dish, because free syrup becomes icy grit inside the creamy filling.
• •For outdoor dining, carry the bombe in its mould inside a well-packed cooler and unmould it shortly before serving. A frozen serving platter buys several useful minutes at the table.
• •Use pasteurized yolks when serving pregnant guests, young children, older adults, or anyone with reduced immunity. The hot syrup cooks the yolks substantially, but the final temperature can vary with bowl and mixer.

Advance Preparation

• •The apricot ice can be churned and used to clothe the mould one day ahead. Keep the reserved portion tightly covered so it does not collect frost before the closing layer is spread.
• •The apricots can be stewed, drained, and chilled up to two days ahead. Store them in a sieve set over a covered bowl so any remaining syrup continues to escape.
• •The assembled bombe keeps well for three days in the freezer. Protect its surface with wrap pressed directly against the closing layer, then cover the mould tightly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 220g)