
Chef Juliette
Various Almond Preparations
Five almond preparations, one discipline: remove the skins cleanly, dry every kernel through, then cut, toast, or cloak it in pale caramel without letting its fragrant oils escape.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2804, Coupes à la Favorite, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Coupes à la Favorite set two ices in one clear cup, kirsch-maraschino against vanilla, with a pineapple border and strawberry Chantilly at the center. The clean dividing line is the whole lesson.
Coupes à la Favorite (Favorite-style frozen dessert cups) teach one exact thing: in a composed ice, temperature is structure. The kirsch-maraschino ice and vanilla must meet in a clean vertical line, not melt into a pretty muddle, so the first half goes in cold and firm before the second touches it.
The original entry assumed a pâtissier standing before an ice cabinet stocked with kirsch-maraschino ice, vanilla ice cream, pineapple ice, and Chantilly. At home, one sugar syrup becomes both hand-worked ices, while a good full-fat vanilla ice cream supplies the finished component the entry itself takes for granted. Separate syrups were brigade scaffolding and can go. The vertical division, pineapple cordon, and strawberry Chantilly are the dish, so every one stays. One cook, one stove, one evening.
In the glass, the liqueur ice is pale and fragrant, the vanilla is round and creamy, the pineapple gives a bright edge, and the blush-pink Chantilly gathers everything at the center. Before you touch the cream, freeze that first vertical half until it can hold its boundary. That line matters most.
Coupes à la Favorite belongs to the Parisian repertoire of composed glaces, assembled in chilled individual cups from the pastry kitchen's standing collection of ices, creams, and fruit purées. The title Favorite names a formal composition rather than a French region: kirsch and maraschino face vanilla, while pineapple and strawberry provide the outer and central accents. It is sometimes mistaken for an ornate sundae, but its identity lies in the vertical two-flavor geometry and the restrained cordon of pineapple ice.
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 100 g)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 120 g)
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / 150 g)
drained
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
divided
Quantity
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 ml / 95 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
1½ cups (355 ml / 300 g)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 85 g)
hulled
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 120 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g)
Quantity
¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| granulated sugar | ½ cup (120 ml / 100 g) |
| water | ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) |
| canned pineapple chunks packed in juicedrained | ¾ cup (180 ml / 150 g) |
| reserved pineapple juice | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| fresh lemon juicedivided | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| cold water | ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 ml / 95 g) |
| kirsch | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| maraschino liqueur | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| full-fat vanilla ice cream | 1½ cups (355 ml / 300 g) |
| strawberrieshulled | ½ cup (120 ml / 85 g) |
| cold heavy cream | ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) |
| confectioners' sugar | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g) |
| pure vanilla extract | ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1 g) |
Combine the granulated sugar and water in a small saucepan. Warm gently, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then let the syrup boil for 30 seconds. It should be perfectly clear. If crystals cling to the sides, cover the pan for 30 seconds so condensation washes them down. Cool the syrup completely over a bowl of ice.
Measure a scant ½ cup (105 ml / 130 g) of the cold syrup into a bowl. Add the cold water, kirsch, maraschino liqueur, and 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) of the lemon juice. Stir well. For the pineapple ice, blend the pineapple, reserved juice, remaining 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) lemon juice, and all the remaining syrup until completely smooth. One syrup serving two ices is the honest home method; separate batches were pastry-kitchen scaffolding, not the heart of the dish.
Pour the mixtures into separate shallow metal pans, no deeper than 2 cm. Freeze for 45 minutes, then scrape the frozen edges into the softer centers and whisk each mixture smooth. Repeat twice at 30-minute intervals. Pulse each slushy ice separately in a food processor until fine and even, pack into covered containers, and freeze for at least 2 hours. The kirsch-maraschino ice will remain softer because of the alcohol. If it still flows, spread it shallowly and freeze for another 30 minutes; if either ice becomes hard, rest it for 5 minutes and beat it smooth. Ça se rattrape.
Blend the strawberries and pass the purée through a fine sieve. Measure 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 45 g) and chill it thoroughly. Whip the cold cream with the confectioners' sugar and vanilla until it holds soft, rounded peaks, then fold in the strawberry purée in three additions. Stop as soon as the color is even. If the Chantilly loosens, set the bowl over ice for 10 minutes and whisk briefly until it holds a soft mound.
Chill six clear coupe glasses and six flexible acetate or baking-paper dividers. Stand one divider vertically across the diameter of each glass. Let the kirsch-maraschino ice soften just enough to pack, then press one-sixth firmly against one side of every divider, stopping about 2 cm below the rim. Smooth the exposed face and freeze the glasses for 25 to 30 minutes, until the ice no longer yields beneath the back of a chilled spoon. This first freezing is the step that decides the dish.
Soften the vanilla ice cream until pliable but never glossy or melting. Peel each divider straight upward and pack vanilla into the empty half, working gently against the frozen face of the kirsch-maraschino ice. Smooth the top and return each coupe to the freezer for 20 minutes. If the line smears, freeze the cup for 10 minutes, shave away the crossover with a warm teaspoon, and refill that spot with the correct ice. Ça se rattrape.
Let the pineapple ice soften for 3 to 5 minutes and beat it until smooth enough to pipe. Spoon it into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm plain tip, then pipe a narrow cordon, a neat rope, around the inside rim of each coupe. Place a rounded spoonful of strawberry Chantilly at the center where the two halves meet. Serve at once, while every flavor remains distinct and the glass is cold with condensation. À table!
1 serving (about 170g)
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