Pêches à la Sultane

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •3-quart (2.8 L) saucepan
• •Small heavy saucepan for spun sugar
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Sugar thermometer
• •Two table forks and two wooden spoons for spinning sugar
• •2-quart (1.9 L) glass timbale or compote bowl
• •Large shallow bowl for the crushed-ice base

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill the service pieces

   Place a 2-quart glass timbale or compote bowl and four dessert plates in the freezer for at least 20 minutes. Keep the pistachio ice cream fully frozen. The cold bowl is the home equivalent of setting the timbale on a solid block of ice, and it buys enough time to arrange the peaches without losing the firm pistachio layer.

2. 2

   Peel the peaches

   Cut a shallow cross through the skin at the base of each peach. Lower them into gently boiling water for 20 to 40 seconds, then cool them under running water just until they can be handled. Slip off the skins, halve the peaches along their seams, and remove the stones. If a skin clings, return that peach to the hot water for another 10 seconds rather than gouging away its flesh.

   Choose peaches that smell fragrant at the stem but still resist a gentle thumb. Soft peaches collapse in the syrup before vanilla has time to reach them.
3. 3

   Make the vanilla syrup

   Combine the 3 cups water and 1½ cups sugar in a snug 3-quart saucepan. Scrape in the vanilla seeds and add the pod. Bring slowly to a simmer, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 5 minutes. The liquid should remain clear and smell distinctly of vanilla.

4. 4

   Poach the peaches

   Lower the peach halves into the vanilla syrup and cover them with a round of baking parchment so they remain submerged. Hold the syrup at the barest tremble for 4 to 8 minutes, turning the fruit once, until a thin knife enters with faint resistance. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the peaches in the syrup for 15 minutes, then lift them carefully into a shallow covered dish and chill for at least 2 hours. If a half tears, set the torn side downward at service. Ça se rattrape.

   Never let the syrup boil hard. Aggressive movement bruises the fruit and turns its clean edges ragged.
5. 5

   Reduce and perfume

   Strain the poaching syrup into a clean saucepan and boil steadily until about 1¼ cups (300 ml) remain. Chill it completely. Test a spoonful on a cold plate: it should run slowly and coat the spoon in a clear sheet. If it remains watery, reduce it again before adding the rose; if it becomes sticky, loosen it with cold water a teaspoon at a time. Reserve ¼ cup of the unscented syrup, then stir 4 drops of rose essence into the remainder. Taste it cold and add further drops only until the rose appears behind the peach, never in front. If the perfume goes too far, whisk in the reserved syrup one spoonful at a time. Ça se rattrape.

   Rose essence and rose water are not interchangeable by measure. Essence is concentrated enough to spoil the syrup in a careless pour, so use the dropper.
6. 6

   Spin the sugar

   Cover the work surface and floor below with parchment. Lightly oil two wooden spoon handles, anchor them beneath a heavy cutting board so they project over the counter, and keep children and pets away. Combine the ¾ cup sugar, ¼ cup water, and glucose syrup in a small heavy saucepan. Heat without stirring until the syrup reaches 300 to 310°F (150 to 155°C) and turns the palest amber. Remove it from the heat and wait 60 to 90 seconds, until a fork dipped into it draws fine threads rather than drops. Dip two forks held back-to-back into the sugar and flick them rapidly across the spoon handles, building a loose web. Once completely cool, gather the threads gently into a veil and keep it on dry parchment. If crystals form before the sugar colors, add 2 tablespoons of water and dissolve them over low heat before beginning again. Never touch or taste molten sugar.

   If the syrup hardens before enough threads are spun, warm it gently until it flows again. Dark, bitter sugar cannot be rescued and must be remade.
7. 7

   Build the timbale

   Fill a broad shallow bowl with the crushed ice and nest the chilled glass timbale securely inside it. Let the pistachio ice cream soften for 3 to 5 minutes, only until spreadable, then press it into an even layer across the bottom. Drain the peach halves and arrange two per serving, rounded sides upward. Spoon the very cold rose syrup generously over the fruit, allowing it to pool lightly around the pistachio ice. Lay the spun-sugar veil over the whole arrangement only when everyone is ready, because moisture begins dissolving it at once. Bring the timbale and chilled plates straight to the table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The pistachio ice should taste of roasted nuts, not almond essence, and its color should be a quiet green-beige rather than neon. A dense bought glace à la pistache is an honest replacement for the brigade's ready churned supply.
• •This dish belongs to fragrant peach season. If the fresh fruit has no scent, use eight good canned peach halves packed in juice, drain them, and steep them for 30 minutes in cooled vanilla syrup. They will be softer and less perfumed, but better than tired fresh fruit.
• •Add the rose essence only when the syrup is fully cold. Warm syrup gives a false impression of its perfume, and the final chilled sauce can taste much stronger than expected.
• •Spun sugar dislikes damp weather, refrigerators, and wet syrup. Make it as close to serving as possible, hold it on dry parchment, and place it over the peaches at the last moment.
• •A small glass of demi-sec Champagne suits the peach and rose without bullying them. Keep the pour modest, because the dessert already carries its own sweetness.

Advance Preparation

• •The peaches may be poached and chilled up to one day ahead. Keep them covered in the refrigerator so their surfaces remain moist.
• •The poaching syrup may be reduced one day ahead, but leave out the rose essence until the syrup is cold and you can judge it at serving temperature.
• •Chill the timbale several hours ahead if convenient. Spin the sugar within 30 minutes of serving, keep it dry at room temperature, and never refrigerate it.
• •Once assembled, the dessert waits for no one. Have the plates cold and the guests seated before the spun-sugar veil goes on.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 400g)