Mousseline Pudding

Pouding Mousseline (mousseline pudding) teaches the handoff between two kinds of lightness: a yolk-rich butter base warmed only until it veils a spoon, then stiffly beaten whites folded in before that warmth can turn against them. The one true thing to know is this: the base must thicken slightly, never become a firm custard.

The original formula assumed a saucier on staff to watch the moderate fire, another pair of hands ready with the whites, and a deep border mould waiting beside the bain-marie. A home kitchen answers with orderly mise en place, a hand mixer, and a deep heatproof ring mould or straight-sided pudding basin. The full ten-yolk formula is halved for four, and the awkward half white is weighed so the proportions do not drift. Extra hands are scaffolding and can go. Gentle direct heat, the immediate fold, a mould filled only halfway, and the water poach are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.

When it is right, the turned-out pudding stands pale gold and trembles softly, with a fine ivory crumb ready to drink in light Sabayon or fruit sauce. Watch the spoon: once the warm base leaves a thin, even veil, take it off the heat at once.