Allumettes

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1-quart (1-litre) heavy saucepan
• •12 by 18-inch (30 by 45 cm) metal baking sheet
• •Rolling pin
• •Offset spatula or broad table knife
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Reduce the Béchamel

   Melt the butter in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook this roux for about 90 seconds, until it bubbles as a smooth white paste without taking colour. Add the milk in three portions, whisking each one completely smooth before adding the next. Bring it to a gentle simmer, then cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring and scraping the pan continuously, until only about ½ cup remains. Test it with the flat of a table knife: the sauce must hold an opaque coat without running when the knife is tilted. If it remains pourable, keep reducing rather than adding flour. If lumps appear, pass the hot sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, return it to the pan, and continue. Ça se rattrape. Remove it from the heat and stir in the Gruyère, cayenne, and salt until smooth. Spread the Béchamel on a shallow plate and cool for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring twice to prevent a skin. It must be cool before it touches the butter-rich pastry.

2. 2

   Roll the puff paste

   Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C), or 350°F (175°C) with a fan, and place a rack in the centre. Roll the cold puff pastry between two sheets of baking parchment into a rectangle 6 inches by 12 inches (15 cm by 30 cm) and about ⅕ inch (5 mm) thick. Trim the sides cleanly, then cut lengthwise to make two ribbons, each 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide. If the pastry becomes soft, shiny, or sticky, slide it onto a board and chill it for 10 minutes. Warm butter smears between the layers; cold butter keeps them distinct.

3. 3

   Spread and press

   Divide the cooled Béchamel between the two ribbons and spread it in a thin, even coat almost to the edges. Use the full sauce, but don't leave ridges or heavy pockets. Sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over the surface, then press it gently into the Béchamel with the flat of a broad knife, exactly enough to anchor the cheese without crushing the pastry. If the sauce slides or squeezes outward, it is still too warm; chill the ribbons until the topping holds still.

4. 4

   Cut and chill

   Cut each topped ribbon crosswise into twelve rectangles, each 1 inch by 3 inches (2.5 cm by 7.5 cm). Press the knife straight down and lift it cleanly rather than sawing, which seals and distorts the laminated edges. Lightly moisten a bare metal baking sheet with cold water and shake off every excess drop; the surface should carry a fine film, never puddles. Arrange the allumettes about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and chill the entire tray for 15 minutes. The source's moistened tray remains useful, while this short chill replaces the speed and cold workspace of a pastry brigade.

5. 5

   Bake until bronzed

   Bake for 12 minutes without opening the oven during the first 10. The allumettes are ready when their sides show separate golden layers, their bases feel dry, and the Parmesan is mottled deep gold. A home oven may ask for another 2 to 4 minutes. If the tops colour before the sides are fully risen, lower the tray one rack and reduce the heat to 350°F (175°C) for the final few minutes. If a test piece bends or feels damp underneath, return the tray at once; another 3 minutes usually restores it.

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Lift the allumettes from the tray with a thin spatula while the cheese is still pliable, then rest them on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Serve warm, when the edges are crisp, the pastry separates into buttery leaves under the teeth, and the concentrated Béchamel remains tender beneath its Parmesan crust. Pass them with the first glass before dinner. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Buy puff pastry made with butter, not margarine or shortening. The pastry has nowhere to hide its fat, and allumettes made with substitutes leave a waxy finish instead of clean, buttery layers. We don't apologize for butter.
• •The sauce test matters more than the clock. Properly reduced Béchamel sits on the knife like a thick ribbon; if it runs toward the handle, it still carries enough water to flatten the pastry.
• •Grate both cheeses finely. Gruyère melts into the Béchamel and Parmesan forms the dry, bronzed crust, so don't reverse their roles or proportions.
• •Serve the allumettes with dry Champagne, crémant, or a mineral white wine. They belong at the apéritif, warm enough to show the butter but cool enough to hold neatly between two fingers.

Advance Preparation

• •The Béchamel can be made one day ahead. Press a cover directly against its surface and chill it, then let it soften for about 20 minutes and beat it smooth before spreading. It must remain cool.
• •The assembled allumettes can be chilled on their tray for up to 2 hours before baking. Longer contact allows the sauce to begin softening the pastry.
• •For longer storage, freeze the cut, topped pastries in a single layer, then transfer them to an airtight container for up to one month. Bake them from frozen on a freshly moistened tray, allowing 15 to 18 minutes.
• •Baked allumettes can stand for 4 hours once completely cool. Refresh them for 4 to 5 minutes at 350°F (175°C), then rest briefly on a rack before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 100g)