Riz au Gras

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart ovenproof saucepan with a tight-fitting lid
• •Large saucepan for parboiling
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Small saucepan for warming the consommé

Instructions

1. 1

   Judge the consommé

   Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Warm the consommé in a small saucepan and taste it hot. It should be full-bodied and properly salted, because the rice receives no other seasoning. If it tastes dull, add only enough salt to wake it; if it is too salty, replace up to ¼ cup (60 ml) with the same amount of unsalted water. If it has no visible richness, stir in the poultry fat or extra butter. The surface should gleam lightly, not carry an oil slick.

   White consommé means a broth made without deeply browned bones or vegetables. Chicken or veal is right here; dark beef consommé would overwhelm the rice and change the character of the dish.
2. 2

   Parboil the rice

   Bring the water to a strong boil in a large saucepan. Add the rice and boil for 4 minutes, stirring once at the beginning to separate the grains. The outside should just begin to soften while the centre remains hard and chalk-white. Drain in a fine sieve, shake away the water, and leave the rice for 2 minutes so its surface dries. Wet rice dilutes the butter and clumps instead of frying.

3. 3

   Fry in butter

   Melt the butter over medium heat in a 2-quart ovenproof saucepan with a tight lid. When the foam subsides, add the drained rice and turn it gently through the butter for 2 to 3 minutes. Every grain should glisten, and the rice should sound faintly dry against the pan. Keep it moving enough that the butter stays golden rather than scorching; if it begins to color quickly, lower the heat at once.

4. 4

   Moisten and bake

   Pour in all the hot consommé, preserving the source's measure of twice the rice's dry volume. Bring it to one full boil, stir once to distribute the grains, then cover tightly and place the pan in the oven for 15 minutes. Do not stir again while it cooks, since agitation releases starch and turns separate grains sticky. At 15 minutes, taste a grain. If it is tender but a little liquid remains, return the pan uncovered for 3 minutes. If the rice is firm and the pan is dry, sprinkle over 2 to 4 tablespoons (30 to 60 ml) hot water or consommé, cover, and bake 5 minutes longer. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Rest and loosen

   Remove the pan from the oven and let the rice stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Loosen it with a fork, lifting rather than pressing so the grains remain distinct. The finished riz au gras should be savory, tender, and lightly glossy, with no broth pooled at the bottom. Transfer it to a warm serving dish or carry the pan directly to the table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use ordinary long-grain white rice or Carolina rice, not quick-cooking or packaged converted rice. The recipe performs its own parboil, and repeating that treatment gives soft, tired grains.
• •The consommé carries the dish. Choose chicken or veal with a clean, concentrated flavor and enough natural fat to leave a gentle sheen. Crystal clarity matters less once the liquid is absorbed, but depth and seasoning matter completely.
• •Use a broad 2-quart pan rather than a narrow saucepan. The shallow layer cooks evenly in fifteen minutes, while rice piled deeply may remain firm in the centre and wet at the edges.
• •Serve riz au gras beside roast chicken, veal, or a fricassée whose sauce it can catch. It needs no herb confetti or decorative flourish. Cooking well is not cooking fancy.

Advance Preparation

• •The consommé can be measured, tasted, and chilled up to one day ahead. Warm it thoroughly before adding it to the buttered rice so the oven cooking begins without delay.
• •For the best separate texture, parboil and bake the rice just before serving. Leftovers should be cooled promptly and refrigerated for up to two days; reheat them covered with 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) consommé and a small piece of butter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 190g)