Aubergines Soufflées

Aubergines soufflées (souffléed aubergines) teach the first law of every savoury soufflé: the base must be concentrated before the egg whites touch it. Aubergine pulp carries plenty of water, and a loose béchamel gives the captured air nowhere to stand. Fry the flesh until tender, reduce the sauce properly, then combine them measure for measure.

The original entry assumed a saucier could hand over reduced béchamel, a frying station stood ready, and enough hands were present to fill brigade quantities. At home, one skillet, one small saucepan, and a moderate oven do the work for four. There is no stock in this dish, so a stockpot never off the fire adds nothing, and a salamander would colour the crown before the centre could set. Those are brigade scaffolding. Equal quantities of pulp and reduced béchamel, Parmesan, stiff whites, and immediate service are the dish, so they stay.

The decisive moment is the fold. Let the base cool, beat the whites only to firm, glossy peaks, and stop folding while a few pale streaks remain. Air is an ingredient here, and every unnecessary stroke spends it.