Chapter XVI · Poultry (Volaille) · No. 1810
1810—Hare and Leveret (Lièvre et Levraut)
As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found.
Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as follows:—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of fumets and forcemeats.
Escoffier, A. (1907). A Guide to Modern Cookery, No. 1810, p. 572. London: William Heinemann. Translation of Le Guide Culinaire (1903).
Curious how this dish reads in a modern kitchen? See Chef Juliette’s version →