Zanahorias Aliñadas de Cádiz

Zanahorias aliñadas belong to Cádiz, Andalucía: thick coins of boiled carrot steeped in a sharp, brick-red aliño, a dressing of garlic, cumin, oregano, sweet pimentón, and vinegar. They arrive cold or cool on a small plate, fragrant with cumin and firm enough for a fork. This isn't a long-keeping pickle. It's a short marinade, and it is better the next day.

The carrots decide the dish. Pull them from the water while a skewer still meets a little resistance, because they continue softening as they cool and rest in the dressing. Cook them until floppy and no mortar work can rescue them. Slice them thick, then add the aliño while they're still warm enough to take in its flavour.

Vinagre de Jerez, sherry vinegar, gives the clean acidity and rounded wine flavour that belong naturally in a Cádiz kitchen. If you can't find it, use the same amount of ordinary red or white wine vinegar, never balsamic. The result will be a little plainer and less nutty, but it will still be the right sort of dressing. Pound the spices, keep the carrots firm, and give them four hours at least. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.