Yakitori Sunagimo (砂肝, chicken gizzard)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Konro or shichirin grill with binchōtan; a charcoal grill or very hot broiler works as a stand-in
• •Flat bamboo yakitori skewers (teppō-gushi), or short metal skewers
• •Small wire rack set over a sheet pan for broiling
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the skewers

   If using bamboo skewers, soak 8 short skewers in water for 30 minutes while you trim. Flat teppō-gushi hold the gizzard pieces steady; metal skewers need no soaking. The soak keeps bamboo from scorching before the meat finishes, and the flat shape keeps each piece from spinning when you turn it.

   Short skewers are easier to manage over a small grill. Long handles look grand until they burn at the edge of the grate.
2. 2

   Trim the gizzards

   Keep the gizzards cold and work cleanly. Separate each whole gizzard into two lobes by cutting through the white seam. Slice away the thick pale membrane, any gristly knobs, and any yellow inner lining. Those parts are built for grinding and won't soften in the short time a yakitori skewer spends over the fire. Rinse only if you see grit, swishing the pieces in a bowl of cold water rather than under a hard faucet, then pat very dry. You want clean meat, not raw chicken droplets on the sink.

3. 3

   Cut and score

   Cut the trimmed lobes into bite-size pieces about 3/4 inch (2 cm). On thicker rounded sides, make two or three shallow slashes, stopping halfway down. You're not trying to make the gizzard soft. The slashes open paths for salt and heat, so the outside can crisp before the center overcooks. Keep the pieces close in size, because uneven pieces make you choose between underdone and tough.

4. 4

   Salt and rest

   Sprinkle the gizzards with 3/4 teaspoon of the salt and toss well. Rest them uncovered in the refrigerator for 10 minutes while the grill heats, then blot only the visible beads of moisture. The short rest lets the salt move just far enough in to season the bite, and the dry surface gives the grill something to crisp.

   Do not salt them hours ahead. Gizzard is lean, and a long salt rest tightens it before the charcoal ever has a chance.
5. 5

   Thread the skewers

   Thread 4 or 5 pieces onto each skewer through the thickest part, keeping the scored side mostly facing one direction. The pieces should touch lightly but not be packed tight. Crowding leaves the inner sides pale and rubbery; a little space lets the edges catch and brown.

6. 6

   Grill close

   Set a konro or shichirin over binchōtan if you have it, or use a charcoal grill with the grate set 2 to 3 inches above the coals. The fire should be fierce enough that you can hold your hand over the grate only about two seconds. For a broiler, heat it fully for 10 minutes and set a rack about 4 inches below the element. Cook the skewers, turning every minute, 6 to 8 minutes total over charcoal or 5 to 7 minutes under the broiler. Sprinkle with the remaining salt in the last minute. They are done when the cut edges are browned, the score lines look crisp, the centers are opaque, and an instant-read thermometer reads 165 F (74 C). Pull them then; extra time makes them hard, not more properly cooked.

   The thermometer is not there to make the dish timid. It lets you pull the skewer exactly when it is safe and still springy.
7. 7

   Finish with lemon

   Rest the skewers for one minute, then serve with lemon wedges. Lemon comes at the end because its juice softens the crisp edge if it sits too long; at the table it brightens the salt without taking over. Eat sunagimo while it is still lively under the teeth. Waiting is where good gizzard goes to become homework.

Chef Tips

• •Ask for gizzards that look glistening fresh, deep red to purple, and feel firm, with a clean, faintly mineral smell. If they smell sour or feel slimy, don't negotiate with them. Cook something else. There is no 旬 (shun, seasonal prime) to rescue a tired gizzard; freshness is the season here.
• •Trim more than your thrift allows at first. The white seam and yellow lining stay hard over quick heat, so leaving them on saves a gram and ruins the bite. Not all economy is wise.
• •Binchōtan gives clean, steady heat and little smoke; good lump charcoal is a sensible stand-in. A broiler works too if it is fully preheated, but keep the skewers close and turn them often.
• •Do not marinate this version in tare. Tare has its own place, but sunagimo shio depends on salt, cut, and timing. The crunch should speak before the seasoning does.

Advance Preparation

• •The gizzards can be trimmed up to 1 day ahead. Keep them covered in the refrigerator on paper towels, and salt them only within 15 minutes of grilling.
• •Bamboo skewers can be soaked earlier in the day and kept wrapped in a damp towel in the refrigerator.
• •Do not grill sunagimo ahead. The crisp surface fades and the springy center turns stiff as it waits.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 85g)