
Chef Juliette
Sandwiches
Five classical fillings between bread buttered to every edge, cut into tidy rectangles and held under a light weight: a French buffet lesson in softness, proportion, and restraint.
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Beer-simmered bratwurst grilled until the casing snaps, nestled in a soft roll with caraway-scented sauerkraut and sharp mustard. This is Wisconsin tailgate tradition perfected for your backyard.
The bratwurst belongs to Wisconsin the way the lobster roll belongs to Maine. German immigrants carried the recipe across the Atlantic in the nineteenth century, settling in Milwaukee and Sheboygan and Madison, where they discovered that American lager and football Saturdays suited their sausage traditions perfectly. What emerged is something distinctly American: the brat simmered in beer and onions, then finished over open flame until the casing threatens to burst.
The technique matters here. You poach first, grill second. This isn't hedging your bets. The beer bath ensures the sausage cooks through gently and evenly, absorbing malty sweetness and onion perfume along the way. The grill provides what the bath cannot: caramelization, char, and that satisfying snap when you bite through the casing.
I've eaten these sausages at Lambeau Field in November, hands numb and breath visible, and I've made them in my own backyard in July. The context changes. The satisfaction does not. This is honest food, democratically priced, requiring no special skill beyond attention and a willingness to stand by a hot grill with a cold beer in hand.
Quantity
6 (about 1 1/2 pounds)
Quantity
3 (12-ounce) bottles or cans
Quantity
1 large
sliced into 1/4-inch rings
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 pound
drained and rinsed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly cracked
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
6
split
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
as desired
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh bratwurst sausages | 6 (about 1 1/2 pounds) |
| lager beer | 3 (12-ounce) bottles or cans |
| yellow onionsliced into 1/4-inch rings | 1 large |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh sauerkrautdrained and rinsed | 1 pound |
| caraway seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | 1/2 teaspoon |
| vegetable oil | 1 tablespoon |
| hoagie rolls or bratwurst bunssplit | 6 |
| spicy brown mustard | for serving |
| sliced onions for topping (optional) | as desired |
Melt butter in a large, deep skillet or braiser over medium heat. Add onion rings and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to turn golden at the edges, about eight minutes. The onions should smell sweet and honest, releasing their sugars into the butter.
Nestle the bratwurst into the onions and pour the beer over everything. The liquid should nearly cover the sausages. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to maintain lazy bubbles rising every few seconds. Cook for twenty minutes, turning the brats halfway through. They will turn pale gray and plump slightly as the casings tighten.
While brats simmer, combine sauerkraut, caraway seeds, and black pepper in a small saucepan. Add half a cup of the beer-braising liquid. Warm over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through and the caraway perfumes the kitchen. Keep warm until serving.
Heat your grill to medium-high, around 400°F. Clean the grates thoroughly with a wire brush, then oil them by folding a paper towel, dipping it in vegetable oil, and rubbing it across the hot grates using long tongs. This prevents sticking and creates those distinctive char marks.
Remove brats from the beer bath, letting excess liquid drip off. Place directly on the hot grill grates. Cook three to four minutes per side, rotating occasionally to develop an even mahogany crust. The casing should snap audibly when you press it with tongs. Listen for that resistance. A properly finished brat fights back.
Open the rolls and place them cut-side down on the cooler edge of the grill during the last minute of cooking. Toast until golden with light char marks but still soft enough to yield to the sausage. A roll too crisp becomes a weapon. You want give, not crunch.
Lay each brat in a toasted roll. Top with a generous forkful of warm sauerkraut and a stripe of spicy brown mustard. Add beer-braised onions if you like. Serve immediately with napkins, because there is no dignified way to eat this, nor should there be.
1 serving (about 265g)
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