Whole Steamed Fish with Ginger and Scallions

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wok with steamer rack and domed lid (or large pot with improvised rack)
• •Heatproof oval plate that fits inside steamer
• •Small saucepan for heating oil
• •Instant-read thermometer (optional, for checking oil temperature)

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the fish

   Rinse the fish under cold water and pat it thoroughly dry inside and out with paper towels. Using a sharp knife, make three diagonal slashes on each side of the fish, cutting down to the bone. These cuts should be about two inches apart. They allow heat and flavor to penetrate the thickest part of the flesh and tell you the fish is done when the meat in the cuts turns opaque.

   Ask your fishmonger to clean and scale the fish for you. They'll remove the gills and innards, which must be done, but leave the head and tail intact.
2. 2

   Prepare the aromatics

   Cut half the ginger into thin coins, about eight pieces. Julienne the remaining ginger into fine matchsticks and set aside for garnish. Trim the scallions and cut them into three-inch lengths, then slice these lengthwise into thin strips. Reserve half the scallion strips for garnishing. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil, and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves.

3. 3

   Set up for steaming

   Choose a heatproof plate that fits inside your steamer with at least one inch clearance on all sides for steam circulation. Scatter the ginger coins across the plate. Lay the fish on top. Tuck a few scallion pieces into the cavity and scatter more over the fish. The ginger coins elevate the fish slightly, allowing steam to circulate underneath.

   If you don't own a steamer, create one: set a round rack or three balls of crumpled aluminum foil in the bottom of a large pot or roasting pan with a lid. Add water below the rack level. This works perfectly.
4. 4

   Steam the fish

   Bring the water in your steamer to a rolling boil over high heat. You want aggressive steam. Carefully lower the plate with the fish into the steamer and cover tightly. Steam for 8 to 10 minutes for a 1.5-pound fish, or 10 to 12 minutes for a 2-pound fish. The fish is done when the flesh in the deepest slash has turned from translucent to opaque white and flakes easily when prodded with a chopstick. Do not overcook. When in doubt, check at 8 minutes.

   Resist lifting the lid to peek. Every time you do, you lose steam and add cooking time. Trust the process.
5. 5

   Transfer and drain

   Carefully remove the plate from the steamer. Liquid will have accumulated, a mixture of fish juices and condensed steam. Tilt the plate and pour off most of this liquid, leaving just a tablespoon or two. Too much liquid dilutes your sauce. Transfer the fish to a warmed serving platter, leaving the steamed ginger and scallions behind. Discard them. They've done their work.

6. 6

   Garnish with fresh aromatics

   Scatter the reserved julienned ginger and sliced scallions over the fish in an even layer. If using cilantro and chile, add them now. Pour the soy sauce mixture evenly over the fish. Everything is in place. Now comes the moment of drama.

7. 7

   Finish with hot oil

   Heat the neutral oil in a small saucepan over high heat until it shimmers and just begins to smoke. This takes two to three minutes. The oil must be genuinely hot, around 375 degrees, or you won't get the sizzle that makes this dish sing. Working quickly and carefully, pour the hot oil in a thin stream over the scallions and ginger. You'll hear it crackle and pop. The aromatics will sizzle and release their fragrance instantly. The scallions will soften and turn bright green. This is exactly what you want.

   Stand back slightly when pouring the oil. The sizzle can spatter. Use a long-handled ladle if you're nervous.
8. 8

   Serve immediately

   Bring the platter to the table at once. Steamed fish waits for no one. Serve with steamed jasmine rice to catch every drop of the sauce. When portioning, use a spoon and fork to lift sections of flesh away from the bone. Once you've served one side, lift the spine from the tail end and remove it whole to access the bottom fillet. The cheeks and collar meat near the head are prizes for the guest of honor.

Chef Tips

• •Fish selection matters immensely. Look for bright, clear eyes, red gills, and flesh that springs back when pressed. The fish should smell like the ocean, not like fish. If your fishmonger won't let you smell it, find a new fishmonger.
• •Light soy sauce is not low-sodium soy sauce. It's thinner, saltier, and lighter in color than dark soy sauce. Pearl River Bridge and Lee Kum Kee both make reliable versions available at Asian grocers.
• •For larger gatherings, steam two smaller fish rather than one large one. Cooking time increases significantly with size, and a three-pound fish can overcook on the outside before the center is done.
• •Shaoxing wine is worth seeking out at an Asian grocery. It adds depth no other ingredient matches. In a pinch, dry sherry substitutes adequately. Never use cooking wine sold in supermarket aisles.
• •This dish pairs beautifully with dry Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, or a crisp Champagne. The acidity cuts through the richness of the oil while the wine's minerality complements the fish.

Advance Preparation

• •The fish can be cleaned, scored, and refrigerated on the steaming plate up to 4 hours ahead. Keep covered and return to room temperature 20 minutes before steaming.
• •All aromatics can be sliced and the sauce mixed up to a day in advance. Store ginger and scallions in damp paper towels in the refrigerator.
• •For a dinner party, set up your steaming apparatus and measure the oil before guests arrive. The only last-minute work is the steaming itself and the hot oil finish, a total of 15 minutes.
• •Warm your serving platter in a 200-degree oven while the fish steams. A cold platter cools the fish too quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 262g)