
Chef Ally
California Seafood Chowder with Fresh Herbs
A bowlful of Pacific abundance where the sea speaks clearly through fennel, fresh herbs, and a restrained splash of cream, letting clams, mussels, and firm white fish taste of what they are.
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A California rethinking of chili: tender braised chicken, creamy white beans, and charred tomatillos come together in a tangy, warming bowl that feels lighter than it has any right to, yet satisfies completely.
Tomatillos are the heart of this chili. Look for them in late summer and early fall when they are plump inside their papery husks, sticky and bright green, with a citrusy tartness that no tomato can match. Charred under a broiler, they sweeten and mellow, becoming the base for a broth that tastes alive.
This is not the heavy, brick-red chili of Super Bowl parties. It is something lighter and more nuanced, the kind of thing you might discover at a farmers market stall where someone is ladling bowls from a pot that has been simmering all morning. The white beans turn creamy. The chicken falls apart. The lime at the end pulls everything into focus.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. If you can find pasture-raised chicken and make your own stock, you will taste the difference. If canned beans and store-bought broth are what you have, this chili will still nourish. Start where you are. The tomatillos are the thing that matters most here, and they ask almost nothing of you except a few minutes under the broiler and the patience to let them do their work.
Quantity
1 pound
husked and rinsed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
2 cans (15 ounces each)
drained and rinsed
Quantity
1 cup
leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
Quantity
2
juiced
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
sliced
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| tomatilloshusked and rinsed | 1 pound |
| poblano peppers | 2 |
| jalapeño pepper | 1 |
| boneless, skinless chicken thighs | 1 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| ground cumin | 1 tablespoon |
| dried oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| ground coriander | 1/2 teaspoon |
| homemade chicken stock | 4 cups |
| cannellini beansdrained and rinsed | 2 cans (15 ounces each) |
| fresh cilantroleaves and tender stems, roughly chopped | 1 cup |
| limesjuiced | 2 |
| sour cream (optional) | for serving |
| radishes (optional)sliced | for serving |
| tortilla chips (optional) | for serving |
Set your broiler to high and position a rack about four inches from the heat. Arrange the tomatillos and peppers on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until the skins blister and blacken in spots, turning once, about eight to ten minutes total. The tomatillos will soften and release their juices. Let them cool enough to handle.
Once cool, peel away the blistered skin from the poblanos (do not worry about getting every bit). Remove stems and seeds. For the jalapeño, remove the stem and seeds if you prefer less heat. Roughly chop all the peppers and add them to a blender with the charred tomatillos and any juices from the pan.
Pulse the tomatillos and peppers until you have a chunky puree. Some texture is welcome here. This is not a smooth salsa but a rustic base that will melt into the chili. Set aside.
Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the chicken in a single layer, working in batches if needed. Let it cook undisturbed for four to five minutes until golden underneath. Flip and brown the other side, another three to four minutes. The chicken will not be cooked through. Transfer to a plate.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion to the pot with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about five minutes. Add the garlic, cumin, oregano, and coriander. Stir until fragrant, about one minute. The kitchen should smell like the start of something good.
Pour in the tomatillo mixture and chicken stock. Stir to combine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Nestle the browned chicken thighs into the liquid. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook for twenty minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and tender.
Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Using two forks, shred the meat into bite-sized pieces. It should fall apart easily. Return the shredded chicken to the pot.
Stir in the cannellini beans. Simmer uncovered for ten more minutes, allowing the flavors to marry and the chili to thicken slightly. If it seems too thick, add a splash more stock. If too thin, simmer a bit longer. Taste and adjust salt as needed.
Remove from heat. Stir in the lime juice and half the cilantro. The acid lifts everything, so do not skip the lime. Ladle into warm bowls. Top with a spoonful of sour cream, sliced radishes, remaining cilantro, and a handful of tortilla chips alongside. Serve immediately, while the steam still rises.
1 serving (about 400g)
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