
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Chtapodi me Kritharaki (Χταπόδι με Κριθαράκι)
Aegean island octopus, tomato, red wine, and toasted kritharaki share one pot, so the pasta drinks the briny sauce and stays glossy instead of turning heavy.
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Western Macedonia's Easter lamb is roasted first, then given its yogurt, egg, and kefalotyri cover late, so the meat stays tender and the topping sets golden.
Arni me giaourti is Western Macedonia's Easter lamb: lamb roasted until tender, then covered with giaourti, eggs, and sharp cheese so the top sets into a pale-gold crust. The region is the dish's surname here. In Kozani, Grevena, and the villages around them, spring lamb doesn't always go to the spit. Often it goes into the tapsi, the round baking pan, with good olive oil, a little garlic, and patience.
The one method that decides it is when you add the yogurt. Roast the lamb first until the meat gives under a fork, then whisk the yogurt with eggs, flour, cheese, and a few spoonfuls of hot pan juice before it goes over the meat. Give that cover only its last short bake. Long harsh heat makes yogurt split; late steady heat lets it set like a soft savory custard, golden at the edges.
I keep this version spare because the dish is spare. No extra vegetables hiding under the lamb, no dressing it up until you can't recognize the north in it. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, and this one deserves to come out of your oven tasting like Easter in Western Macedonia.
Arni me giaourti belongs to Western Macedonia's Easter table, especially the stock-raising districts around Kozani, Grevena, and Florina, where sheep and goat dairying shaped the kitchen as much as wheat did. The yogurt-and-egg crust is a northern mainland answer to Paschal lamb that elsewhere is roasted simply with lemon, oregano, and oil. Its older logic is practical: fresh spring lamb and thick sheep's-milk yogurt meet in one oven dish after Lent ends.
Quantity
1.8kg
cut into 6 serving pieces
Quantity
14g
12g for the lamb, 2g for the topping
Quantity
1 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
rubbed between your fingers
Quantity
4
lightly crushed
Quantity
70ml
Quantity
30g
diced
Quantity
200ml
plus more if the pan dries
Quantity
500g
at room temperature
Quantity
3
at room temperature
Quantity
25g
Quantity
120g
finely grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in spring lamb shoulder or legcut into 6 serving pieces | 1.8kg |
| fine sea salt12g for the lamb, 2g for the topping | 14g |
| freshly ground black pepperdivided | 1 teaspoon |
| dried Greek oreganorubbed between your fingers | 1 teaspoon |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed | 4 |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 70ml |
| sheep's-milk butter or unsalted butterdiced | 30g |
| hot waterplus more if the pan dries | 200ml |
| full-fat strained sheep's-milk yogurt (giaourti)at room temperature | 500g |
| large eggsat room temperature | 3 |
| all-purpose flour | 25g |
| kefalotyri or kasserifinely grated | 120g |
Heat the oven to 180C. Put the lamb in a deep 32cm tapsi or heavy roasting dish. Rub it with 12g salt, half the pepper, the oregano, garlic, and olive oil, then dot the butter over the top. Pour the hot water around the meat, not over it, and cover the dish tightly with foil.
Roast for 1 hour 30 minutes, turning the pieces once. Uncover, spoon the pan juices over the lamb, and roast for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the meat has browned and a fork slides in without argument. If the pan looks dry, add a splash of hot water. You want roughly a cup of glossy pan juices left.
Lower the oven to 170C. In a bowl, whisk the yogurt, eggs, flour, remaining 2g salt, remaining pepper, and 100g of the grated cheese until smooth. Whisk in 3 tablespoons of the hot pan juices in a thin stream. The yogurt topping goes on late because long harsh heat makes it split; a short final bake lets it set into a soft golden crust.
Pour the yogurt mixture over the lamb, nudging it between the pieces so the meat is mostly covered. Scatter over the remaining 20g cheese. Bake uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until the topping is set, lightly puffed, and golden at the edges.
Let the dish rest for 15 minutes before serving. The crust settles, the pan juices thicken a little, and each spoonful holds together. Serve with horta, roast potatoes, or plain pilafi, and keep bread on the table for the sauce.
1 serving (about 320g)
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Chef Dimitra
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