Vieja Sancochada Canaria

Vieja sancochada is Canarian coastal cooking: fresh whole vieja, the islands' parrotfish, poached with onion, tomato, green pepper, and parsley, then served beside papas arrugadas and mojo verde. It isn't sancocho canario, the salt-fish dish with sweet potato and gofio. Here the fish is fresh, sweet, and barely cooked.

The method that decides it is the water. Bring the poaching liquor to a boil before the fish goes in, then lower it until only a small bubble appears at the edge. Keep it there. A rolling boil throws the vieja about and breaks its delicate flesh, while quiet water leaves every flake whole. Have the fishmonger gut it and remove the gills, but keep the great scales where they are. After cooking, skin and scales lift away together like a jacket.

Far from the Canary Islands, look for a whole sea bream, dorada, or red porgy of the same weight. Either takes this method well, though the flesh is firmer and lacks the vieja's particular sweetness. Don't buy an unrelated tropical parrotfish merely because the market uses the same English name. No hace falta haber pisado España, but you do need sound fish: bright eyes, firm flesh, and the clean smell of the sea.

Serve it simply, with the salt-crusted potatoes and a green mojo sharp with coriander, cumin, garlic, and vinegar. In the Margin beside this recipe I wrote two words: quiet water. Remember that and the fish takes care of itself.