Vieiras al Horno

Vieiras al horno belong to Galicia, especially the Rías Baixas, where the scallop is baked in its own deep shell beneath a slow onion-and-jamón sofrito, a little tomato, Albariño, and a thin coat of breadcrumbs. The orange coral stays beside the white muscle when the scallop brings one. This is Christmas and celebration food, rich enough without cream and properly browned without cheese.

The sofrito, the slow onion base, decides the dish. I cook the onion low until it turns dark gold, sweet, and almost jammy, then reduce the tomato and wine until a spoon drawn through the pan leaves a clean trail. Leave the sauce loose and it soaks the crumbs while the scallop overcooks underneath. Get it thick, spread it lightly, and the shellfish stays tender beneath a crisp golden lid.

Far from Galicia, use large dry-packed sea scallops and cleaned reusable scallop shells. Four shallow 120ml ramekins will also do, though you lose the shell liquor and the mineral taste of the coral, so the result is a little less of the sea. Godello is the nearest Spanish substitute for Albariño; a dry, unoaked white wine works at a pinch but brings less saline freshness. The Margin beside this one says only, "thin crumbs, hot oven." Siempre sale, si lo sigues.