Ventresca de Bonito a la Parrilla

Ventresca de bonito a la parrilla belongs to the grill cooking of the Basque coast, where summer brings bonito del norte, albacore tuna, into the Cantabrian ports. Ventresca is its fan-shaped belly, richer and more delicate than the loin because fine seams of fat run between the layers. Good charcoal, salt, and olive oil are enough. A sweet glaze or a heavy sauce would only hide the fish you paid to taste.

The one thing that decides it is when you take it off the parrilla, the grill. Ventresca keeps cooking after it leaves the coals, so I remove it while the thickest part is only just set and still pearly inside. Give it three minutes to rest and its own fat settles through the flesh. Leave it on the grate until it looks thoroughly cooked and it turns chalky. There is no clever rescue for that.

Far from the Cantabrian coast, ask for skin-on albacore tuna belly, fresh or properly frozen. Yellowfin belly is the honest substitute when albacore isn't available, though it is darker, stronger, and a little less delicate. A lean tuna loin is not the same cut and won't stay as succulent. The Margin beside this dish says only, "sácalo antes," take it off sooner. Follow that and it comes out.