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Tuvaluan Breadfruit Poi (Sweet Mashed Mei with Coconut Cream)

Tuvaluan Breadfruit Poi (Sweet Mashed Mei with Coconut Cream)

Created by Chef Makoa

Cooked mei, the breadfruit of Tuvalu, mashed warm with fresh coconut cream until it turns soft, glossy, and sweet, a coral-atoll pudding where dessert and survival sit in the same bowl.

Desserts
Polynesian, Tuvaluan
Comfort Food
Celebration
Make Ahead
25 min
Active Time
40 min cook1 hr 15 min total
Yield6 to 8 servings

The canoe didn't carry dessert like a little luxury. It carried relatives: mei, breadfruit in gagana Tuvalu, the Tuvaluan language, and niu, coconut, living food for a fenua, an island home, where the ground is coral and the wind keeps salt on everything. This poi belongs to Tuvalu, to the low atolls and reef islands, Funafuti, Nanumea, Nukufetau, Vaitupu, and the rest of that chain, where breadfruit can be comfort, celebration, and plain survival in the same day.

In Hawaiʻi my hands know kalo at the board, and they know ʻulu in the imu, so I keep my humility with this Tuvaluan bowl. Tuvalu says mei; Sāmoa says ʻulu, Tahiti says ʻuru, the Cook Islands say kuru, and back home we say ʻulu. One ocean, one canoe, one root stock, but no nameless bowl. This is Tuvalu's hand: cooked breadfruit mashed while warm, fed with coconut cream until it turns smooth, glossy, and sweet.

The why is patience. Breadfruit that isn't cooked all the way through stays chalky and mean. No blame the mei if you rushed it; no amount of coconut cream can fix that. Let it soften, mash it slow, then add the cream in stages so the starch drinks instead of swimming. Fresh coconut cream is best, a can will do on a weeknight, and for the deeper Tuvalu ways around masi and the old keeping work, sit with a Tuvaluan elder. They should tell their own story. I just keep this bowl open.

Ingredients

mature breadfruit (mei)

Quantity

2 medium, about 3 to 3 1/2 pounds total

green-yellow and just yielding

mature coconuts (niu), or thick canned coconut cream

Quantity

2 coconuts or 1 can (13.5 ounces)

grated and squeezed for 1 3/4 cups thick cream

sugar (optional)

Quantity

2 to 4 tablespoons

to taste

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