
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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A bubbling casserole of tender turkey, earthy mushrooms, and spaghetti bound in velvety Parmesan cream sauce, topped with golden breadcrumbs that shatter at first fork.
This dish carries the name of Luisa Tetrazzini, the Italian opera soprano who conquered American audiences in the early 1900s. Chefs from San Francisco to New York created dishes in her honor, competing to attach her glamorous name to their creations. What survives is this casserole: a thoroughly American invention despite its Italian namesake, born in hotel kitchens and perfected in home ovens across the country.
Tetrazzini is honest cooking. It transforms leftover turkey into something people actually look forward to eating, which is no small feat. The sauce matters most here. Too many versions drown in gluey white paste that coats the tongue and deadens the palate. This one builds flavor properly: sautéed mushrooms, a splash of sherry, good chicken stock, and enough Parmesan to give the sauce backbone without turning it into fondue.
I've served this to guests who had no idea they were eating Thanksgiving leftovers. They thought I'd roasted a turkey just for them. That's the beauty of the dish. Time in the oven melds everything together. The pasta absorbs the sauce, the turkey stays remarkably moist, and that breadcrumb topping provides the textural contrast that separates a memorable casserole from cafeteria food.
Make it the day after Thanksgiving. Make it in February with a turkey breast you roasted just because. Either way, this is American comfort cooking at its most satisfying.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
6 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1 pound
sliced
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
4 cups
cut into bite-sized pieces
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
divided
Quantity
1/2 cup
thawed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| spaghetti | 1 pound |
| unsalted butterdivided | 6 tablespoons |
| cremini mushroomssliced | 1 pound |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| all-purpose flour | 1/3 cup |
| chicken stock, preferably homemade | 3 cups |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| dry sherry | 1/2 cup |
| cooked turkeycut into bite-sized pieces | 4 cups |
| Parmesan cheese, freshly grateddivided | 1 1/2 cups |
| frozen peasthawed | 1/2 cup |
| fresh thyme leaves | 2 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| panko breadcrumbs | 1 cup |
| fresh parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the spaghetti for two minutes less than the package directs. You want it slightly underdone because it will finish cooking in the oven. Drain and toss with a tablespoon of butter to prevent sticking. Spread on a sheet pan to cool while you build the sauce.
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer. Here's where patience pays: let them sit undisturbed for 3 minutes until they develop deep golden color on the bottom. Stir once and cook another 2 minutes. The mushrooms should be bronzed and have released their liquid, which should have evaporated. Season with a pinch of salt and transfer to a bowl.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter to the same pan. When it foams, add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, no more than 30 seconds. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for 2 minutes. This cooks out the raw flour taste and creates the roux that will thicken your sauce.
Pour in the sherry first. It will sizzle and steam. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the sherry reduce by half, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in the chicken stock, then the milk. Bring to a gentle simmer, whisking frequently. The sauce will thicken noticeably over 5 to 7 minutes. It should coat the back of a spoon but still flow freely.
Remove the pan from heat. Stir in 1 cup of the Parmesan until melted and smooth. Add the thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Taste now. The sauce should be savory and well-seasoned with a subtle warmth from the nutmeg. Fold in the turkey, reserved mushrooms, peas, and cooked spaghetti. Toss everything together until the pasta is evenly coated.
Heat your oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish generously. Transfer the pasta mixture to the prepared dish, spreading it evenly. Mix the panko with the remaining 1/2 cup of Parmesan and scatter over the top. The topping should cover the surface in a relatively even layer.
Bake uncovered for 35 to 40 minutes. The casserole is ready when the edges bubble vigorously and the breadcrumb topping has turned deep golden brown. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the remaining time. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. This allows the sauce to set slightly so it doesn't run all over the plate.
Scatter fresh parsley over the top. Serve generous portions directly from the baking dish. Have extra Parmesan at the table for those who want it. A simple green salad with sharp vinaigrette cuts through the richness beautifully.
1 serving (about 400g)
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