Tortelli Dolci di Piacenza

Every region of Emilia-Romagna claims its Carnival sweet. Bologna has the tortelli stuffed with mostarda. Modena fries ribbons called sfrappole. But Piacenza, the westernmost province where Emilia meets Lombardy, makes these: small squares of sweet pasta filled with crema pasticcera and perfumed with Sassolino, the anise liqueur of the neighboring hills.

The dough must be thin. Not so thin that it tears when you seal it around the cream, but thin enough that it fries crisp in seconds rather than turning leaden. This requires the same touch you would bring to fresh tagliatelle. The cream must be cold, completely cold, or it will seep through the seams and spit in the hot oil. There are no shortcuts here.

Sassolino is the traditional flavoring, an anise-scented spirit from the town of Sassuolo. If you cannot find it, substitute Sambuca or another anise liqueur. Do not omit it. The anise lifts the richness of the cream and gives these tortelli their particular character. Without it, you have made a pleasant fried pastry. With it, you have made something worth remembering.