Torta Verde Genovese

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •10-inch tart pan or pie plate
• •Large pot for blanching greens
• •Clean kitchen towels for drying greens
• •Rolling pin

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the olive oil dough

   Mound the flour on your work surface and make a well in the center. Add the half cup olive oil and the salt to the well. Begin mixing with a fork, gradually incorporating flour from the walls. Add the cold water slowly, continuing to mix until a rough dough forms. Knead briefly until smooth, about 2 minutes. The dough should be pliable, not sticky. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

   Olive oil dough forgives overworking in a way butter dough does not. You cannot make it tough. This is why Ligurian home cooks have made it for centuries.
2. 2

   Wilt and dry the greens

   Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chard leaves and cook until completely wilted, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and run under cold water to stop the cooking. When cool enough to handle, take handfuls of the chard and squeeze with all your strength over the sink. Then place the chard in a clean kitchen towel and wring it again. The greens must be as dry as you can make them. Chop roughly.

   If water remains in the greens, your pie will be soggy. There is no remedy for this once baked. Squeeze until your arms tire, then squeeze again.
3. 3

   Build the filling base

   In a large skillet, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook slowly until soft and golden, about 12 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. The garlic should soften but not color. Add the chopped chard and stir to coat with the onion. Cook 3 minutes to marry the flavors. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

4. 4

   Complete the filling

   In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the cooled chard mixture, the Parmigiano, marjoram, and nutmeg. Season generously with pepper and a pinch more salt. Stir until everything is well combined. The mixture should be thick with greens, the eggs serving only to bind.

5. 5

   Roll and line the pan

   Divide the dough into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. On a lightly floured surface, roll the larger piece into a circle about 13 inches across and one-eighth inch thick. Drape it over a 10-inch tart pan or pie plate, pressing gently into the corners. Let the excess hang over the edge. Roll the smaller piece into an 11-inch circle for the top.

6. 6

   Fill and seal the torta

   Spread the filling evenly in the lined pan, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Lay the top crust over the filling. Fold the overhanging bottom crust up and over the top edge, crimping to seal. Cut three small slits in the top to allow steam to escape. Brush the entire surface with the egg wash.

   The steam vents are essential. Without them, the crust lifts away from the filling and the interior turns soggy.
7. 7

   Bake until golden

   Place the torta on a baking sheet and bake in an oven preheated to 375°F until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling is set, 45 to 50 minutes. The crust should be the color of antique gold, not pale blonde. Let cool in the pan for at least 20 minutes before slicing. The torta is best served warm or at room temperature, never hot from the oven.

Chef Tips

• •Substitute a mix of greens as the Genoese do: half chard and half wild borragine (borage) if you can find it, or use spinach. Each green contributes something different. All must be squeezed thoroughly dry.
• •Marjoram is the herb of Liguria, sweeter and more delicate than oregano. Do not substitute dried marjoram. If fresh is unavailable, use fresh flat-leaf parsley. The flavor will be different but honest.
• •This torta improves at room temperature. Make it in the morning for an evening meal, or the day before for a picnic. Refrigerate overnight if you must, but bring to room temperature before serving.

Advance Preparation

• •The dough can be made one day ahead, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before rolling.
• •The filling can be prepared up to one day ahead and refrigerated. The flavors improve with time.
• •The baked torta keeps at room temperature for 6 hours or refrigerated for 2 days. It does not freeze well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 165g)