
Chef Remy
Blackened Catfish on Jalapeno Cornbread
Crispy-crusted catfish kissed with fire and spice, resting on a wedge of tender jalapeno-studded cornbread, finished with a tangy Creole remoulade that ties the whole beautiful mess together.
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Smoke-kissed beef brisket with a peppery black bark, sliced thick and piled onto impossibly soft white bread with nothing but pickles, raw onion, and a smear of tangy sauce—this is Texas BBQ distilled to its purest form.
In Texas, the brisket sandwich is a statement of faith. It declares that good beef, cooked properly over wood smoke for the better part of a day, needs no embellishment. The bread is deliberately humble. The toppings are sparse. Everything exists to frame the meat.
This tradition emerged from the German and Czech butcher shops that dotted Central Texas in the nineteenth century. Pitmasters would smoke unsold cuts to preserve them, serving slices on butcher paper with whatever bread was cheap. The sandwich became democratic food: ranchers and roughnecks eating the same thing, standing at the same counter.
The technique demands patience. You'll spend twelve to fourteen hours maintaining a clean fire while the collagen in that tough cut slowly transforms into gelatin. The bark develops. The fat renders. The meat reaches a state of tenderness that no other cooking method can achieve. Rush it and you'll have edible beef. Give it time and you'll have something worth building your weekend around.
I've eaten brisket from Lockhart to Luling, from Franklin's legendary line in Austin to unmarked joints off farm roads where the pitmaster's grandmother taught him everything. The sandwiches that stay with me share one quality: respect for simplicity. Two slices of bread. Enough meat to matter. The confidence to let smoke and beef speak for themselves.
Quantity
1 (12-14 pounds)
choice grade or higher
Quantity
1/2 cup
freshly cracked
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
chunks or splits for smoking
Quantity
32 slices
Quantity
1 large
sliced into thin rings
Quantity
32
Quantity
1 cup
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole packer brisketchoice grade or higher | 1 (12-14 pounds) |
| coarse black pepperfreshly cracked | 1/2 cup |
| kosher salt | 1/4 cup |
| granulated garlic (optional) | 2 tablespoons |
| oak or post oak wood | chunks or splits for smoking |
| soft white sandwich bread | 32 slices |
| white onionsliced into thin rings | 1 large |
| dill pickle slices | 32 |
| tangy barbecue saucefor serving | 1 cup |
Set the brisket fat-side up on a large cutting board. Using a sharp boning knife, trim the fat cap to roughly one-quarter inch thickness, removing any hard patches of fat that won't render. Flip the brisket and remove the thick membrane and any silver skin from the flat. Square off the edges so the meat cooks evenly. Save the trimmings for grinding into burgers or rendering for tallow.
Combine the coarse black pepper, kosher salt, and granulated garlic if using. The ratio matters: roughly two parts pepper to one part salt. This is the dalmatian rub, named for its speckled appearance, and it's all a proper Texas brisket needs. Apply generously to all surfaces, pressing the seasoning into the meat. The brisket should look heavily coated. Let it sit uncovered at room temperature while you prepare your fire.
Build a fire using oak or post oak, the traditional Texas wood. You want thin blue smoke, not billowing white clouds. White smoke deposits bitter creosote; blue smoke deposits flavor. Bring your smoker to 225 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit and hold it there. Place a water pan in the cooking chamber to maintain humidity. This takes practice. Give yourself an hour to stabilize the temperature before the meat goes on.
Place the brisket fat-side up in the smoker, positioning the thicker point end toward your heat source. Close the lid and resist the urge to peek. Every time you open the cooker, you lose heat and extend your cooking time. Maintain 225 to 250 degrees, adding wood and adjusting vents as needed. The first six hours build the bark, that gorgeous peppery crust. Expect the internal temperature to rise steadily to around 165 degrees, then stall as moisture evaporates.
The stall is real and it tests your patience. The internal temperature will hover between 155 and 170 degrees for hours. You have two options: wait it out, which produces a darker bark and more smoke flavor, or wrap the brisket in butcher paper or foil to push through faster. If wrapping, use unlined peach butcher paper, which lets the meat breathe while trapping moisture. Wrapped brisket can gain four to five degrees per hour instead of stalling.
The brisket is done when it reaches 195 to 205 degrees Fahrenheit and probes like warm butter. Insert an instant-read thermometer or probe into the thickest part of the flat. It should slide in with almost no resistance. This tactile test matters more than the number. Every brisket finishes differently. A probe that meets resistance means more time is needed, regardless of what the thermometer reads.
Remove the brisket from the smoker and let it rest for at least one hour, preferably two. If wrapped, leave it wrapped. If unwrapped, tent loosely with foil. For longer holds, wrap tightly in towels and place in a dry cooler. The meat will stay serving temperature for up to four hours. This rest is not optional. It allows juices to redistribute and the collagen to set. Skip it and you'll slice into a flood of lost moisture.
Unwrap the brisket and place it on a cutting board with the flat facing you. The flat and point have different grain directions, so you'll change your slicing angle partway through. For the flat, slice pencil-thick against the grain, about one-quarter inch. When you reach the point, rotate ninety degrees and continue slicing. The slices should hold together but fall apart at the suggestion of a fork.
Lay two slices of soft white bread on a piece of butcher paper or parchment. This is not the place for artisan sourdough or crusty rolls. You want bread that compresses, that yields completely to the beef. Pile four to five slices of brisket on one piece of bread, mixing fatty point meat with leaner flat. Add two pickle slices and a few rings of raw white onion. Close the sandwich. Serve with tangy barbecue sauce on the side, never smothered on top.
1 serving (about 350g)
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