Sweet Potato Latkes

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Box grater or food processor with shredding disc
• •12-inch cast iron skillet or heavy-bottomed frying pan
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Clean kitchen towels or cheesecloth for squeezing

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the sweet potatoes

   Peel the sweet potatoes and grate them on the large holes of a box grater. Work quickly. Sweet potatoes oxidize faster than white potatoes, turning grayish if left exposed to air. As you finish each potato, transfer the shreds to a large bowl of cold water to prevent discoloration.

   A food processor with the shredding disc speeds this work considerably. For best texture, use long strokes on the box grater to create substantial shreds rather than short ones.
2. 2

   Grate the onion

   Grate the onion on the same large holes. The onion serves two purposes: flavor and chemistry. Its sulfur compounds slow oxidation in the sweet potato, and its sharp bite balances all that sweetness. Add the grated onion to the sweet potatoes.

3. 3

   Extract the moisture

   Drain the sweet potato and onion mixture and transfer it to a clean kitchen towel or several layers of cheesecloth. Gather the corners and twist firmly over the sink, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. This takes muscle. Keep squeezing until barely any liquid drips out. The mixture should feel like damp sand, not wet pulp. This step determines whether your latkes fry crisp or steam into soggy disappointment.

   Work in two batches if needed. Squeezing smaller amounts is more effective than wrestling with one massive bundle.
4. 4

   Build the batter

   Transfer the squeezed mixture to a large bowl. Add the beaten eggs, flour, salt, black pepper, cinnamon, and cayenne. Mix thoroughly with your hands until everything is evenly distributed and the mixture holds together when compressed. If it seems too wet, add another tablespoon of flour. The batter should be cohesive but not pasty.

5. 5

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch. Heat over medium-high until a small shred of sweet potato sizzles immediately when dropped in, about 350 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. The oil should shimmer but not smoke. Patience here prevents burned latkes later.

6. 6

   Form and fry the latkes

   Scoop about 2 tablespoons of batter per latke. Press gently between your palms to form a compact patty about 3 inches across and 1/2 inch thick. Carefully slide into the hot oil. Don't crowd the pan. Three or four latkes at a time is plenty. More than that drops the oil temperature and leads to greasy results.

   For uniformity when serving a crowd, use a 1/4-cup measure as a scoop. Portion all the batter onto a sheet pan before you start frying.
7. 7

   Achieve the golden crust

   Fry until the edges turn deep golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Resist the urge to press down or move them around. Let the oil do its work. The latke will release from the pan when ready to flip. If it sticks, give it another 30 seconds. Turn once and fry the second side until equally golden. The finished latke should be crisp throughout with no soft spots.

8. 8

   Drain and season

   Transfer fried latkes to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Season immediately with a pinch of salt while the surface is still glistening with oil. The wire rack keeps the bottoms from steaming and going soft. Paper towels absorb oil but trap steam. Avoid them if crispness matters to you.

   Between batches, skim any burnt bits from the oil with a slotted spoon. They'll impart bitterness to subsequent latkes if left to accumulate.
9. 9

   Keep warm for serving

   If serving immediately, hold finished latkes in a 250 degree oven on the wire rack while you fry the remaining batches. They'll stay crisp for up to 30 minutes this way. Check your oil temperature before each new batch and adjust the heat as needed to maintain 350 degrees.

10. 10

    Serve with traditional accompaniments

    Arrange warm latkes on a platter and serve with cold sour cream and applesauce on the side. Let guests choose their own combination. Scatter snipped chives over the top for color and a mild onion bite that echoes the latkes themselves. These are best eaten within minutes of frying, while the edges still shatter and the centers stay tender.

Chef Tips

• •The debate over sour cream versus applesauce is eternal. Serve both. The cool tang of sour cream contrasts beautifully with the sweet potato's natural sugars, while applesauce doubles down on sweetness in the best possible way. There's no wrong answer at a holiday table.
• •For a deeper flavor, substitute schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) for half the vegetable oil. This was traditional before vegetable oils became common, and it adds a richness that oil alone cannot match. Not kosher for a dairy meal, but magnificent with the latkes served alongside brisket.
• •Sweet potatoes vary wildly in moisture content depending on variety and storage. Garnet and Jewel varieties work best. The pale-fleshed ones marketed as yams in American supermarkets will also work but produce a less vibrant color.
• •If your latkes fall apart when flipping, the batter is too wet. Add more flour, a tablespoon at a time, until the mixture holds its shape when pressed.

Advance Preparation

• •The sweet potato and onion mixture can be grated, squeezed dry, and refrigerated in an airtight container up to 4 hours ahead. Liquid will continue to release; squeeze again before mixing the batter.
• •Fried latkes can be held at room temperature for up to 2 hours, then recrisped in a 400 degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes. They won't be quite as perfect as fresh-fried, but they'll be very good and your sanity is worth the tradeoff.
• •For large gatherings, fry all latkes up to one day ahead. Cool completely on wire racks, then refrigerate in single layers between parchment paper. Recrisp on sheet pans in a 425 degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes before serving.
• •The batter itself does not hold well once the eggs are added. Mix and fry within 30 minutes for best results.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 345g, typically 3 latkes)