Sulppang (술빵, Makgeolli Steamed Bread)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large steamer, wok with rack, or wide stockpot with rack
• •8-inch round cake pan, bamboo basket, or 2-quart heatproof bowl
• •Clean cotton cloth or parchment round for lining
• •Clean towel for wrapping the lid
• •Instant-read thermometer, optional

Instructions

1. 1

   Wake the makgeolli

   Open the makgeolli carefully over the sink, because a living bottle can foam up quickly. Shake it well so the rice sediment mixes back in, then measure 2 cups into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and salt until dissolved. The liquid should be cool room temperature, about 20 to 24 degrees C, not cold from the refrigerator and never hot.

   Look for saeng makgeolli, unpasteurized rice wine, in the refrigerated case. Shelf-stable pasteurized makgeolli tastes right but will not raise this bread by itself.
2. 2

   Mix the batter

   Add the flour and 1 tablespoon oil to the makgeolli mixture. Stir with a spoon or spatula until no dry flour remains, about 60 to 90 seconds. Do not knead it. Sulppang batter should be thicker than pancake batter and fall from the spoon in heavy ribbons. If it runs like milk, add flour 1 tablespoon at a time. If it stands stiff like dough, add makgeolli or water 1 tablespoon at a time. Once the flour is in, do not taste the raw batter.

3. 3

   Let it rise

   Scrape down the bowl, cover it, and mark the batter height with tape or a rubber band. Let it rise in a warm place, ideally 26 to 28 degrees C, for 4 to 5 hours, until doubled, puffed, and pocked with small bubbles across the surface. A cool kitchen may take 6 hours. The smell should be sweet and lightly sour, not harsh.

   If the batter has barely moved after 6 hours in a warm spot, the makgeolli was weak or pasteurized. Steam it if you like, but do not keep waiting past 8 hours. Write down the brand and buy a fresher live bottle next time.
4. 4

   Prepare the steamer

   Set a large steamer, wok, or wide pot with a rack over water at least 2 inches deep. Line an 8-inch round cake pan, bamboo basket, or heatproof bowl with a clean cotton cloth or a parchment round, then grease the liner with 1 teaspoon oil. Bring the water to a strong boil before the batter goes in, because the bread needs steady heat from the start.

5. 5

   Fold and rest

   Stir the risen batter down gently with 6 to 8 strokes, just enough to even out the large bubbles. Fold in half of the black beans and corn if using. Scrape the batter into the lined pan, smooth the top, and scatter the remaining beans and corn over it. Let it rest 20 to 30 minutes while the water comes up, until the surface looks slightly puffed again. This second rest keeps the crumb soft instead of tight.

6. 6

   Steam the bread

   Set the pan in the steamer. Wrap the lid in a clean towel and tie the towel ends on top so they cannot hang near a flame. Cover and cook over medium-high heat for 35 to 40 minutes. Do not open the lid for the first 30 minutes, or the center can sink. The bread is done when a skewer comes out clean and the center springs back; an instant-read thermometer should read about 95 degrees C in the middle.

   The towel is not decoration. It catches water drops from the lid so they do not pit the top of the bread.
7. 7

   Settle and serve

   Turn off the heat and crack the lid for 5 minutes before lifting the bread out. Let it cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then unmold and cut into wedges. Eat it warm or at room temperature. It should be soft, lightly chewy, faintly tangy from the makgeolli, and sweet enough to be bread, not cake.

Chef Tips

• •Use live makgeolli and read the label. Saeng makgeolli is refrigerated and unpasteurized; shelf-stable bottles are usually sterilized. Technique first: a dead bottle cannot do living work.
• •The safe corner to cut is the vessel. Use a cake pan in a wok, a bamboo basket, or a heatproof bowl in a stockpot. The corner you cannot cut is the rise. If the batter has not doubled, the crumb will be heavy.
• •Keep the toppings modest. Beans and corn should mark the bread, not turn it into a crowded loaf. Let it taste like makgeolli and wheat first.
• •This bread is not for strict alcohol avoidance. Steaming reduces the alcohol, but I would not serve it to someone who must avoid it completely.
• •Do not store fully risen raw batter for later. Steam it when it is ready. Times can change, vessels can change, but active ferment has its own clock.

Advance Preparation

• •The dry ingredients can be measured and mixed up to 1 week ahead, then kept airtight at room temperature.
• •The batter should be mixed, risen, and steamed the same day. Once it has doubled, cook it within 30 minutes for the best lift.
• •Cooked sulppang keeps wrapped at room temperature for 1 day, refrigerated for 3 days, or frozen for 1 month. Rewarm wedges in a covered steamer for 5 to 7 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 105g)