St. Paul Sandwich

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large skillet (12-inch cast iron or carbon steel preferred)
• •Thin metal spatula
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Ladle or large spoon for portioning

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the bean sprouts

   Rinse the bean sprouts under cold water and drain them thoroughly. Wet sprouts will steam rather than crisp in the pan. Spread them on a clean kitchen towel and pat dry, or let them air dry for a few minutes while you prepare everything else. Pick through and discard any that look brown or slimy.

2. 2

   Mix the egg foo young batter

   Crack all six eggs into a large bowl and beat them with a fork until the whites and yolks are fully combined. Add the salt, white pepper, sesame oil, and soy sauce. Beat again briefly to incorporate. The mixture should be uniform in color with no streaks of egg white visible.

   White pepper is traditional in Chinese-American cooking. It has a sharper, more pungent bite than black pepper and disappears into the egg without leaving visible specks.
3. 3

   Add vegetables to the batter

   Fold the dried bean sprouts and sliced green onions into the egg mixture. Stir gently until everything is coated. The batter should look loose and sloppy with vegetables poking out at odd angles. This is correct. You want a high ratio of sprouts to egg so the patty has texture and crunch rather than being a flat omelet.

4. 4

   Heat the oil

   Pour vegetable oil into a large skillet to a depth of about a quarter inch. Set over medium-high heat and let the oil come up to temperature, about 350 degrees if you have a thermometer. Test readiness by dropping a small bit of egg mixture into the oil. It should sizzle immediately and float, bubbling vigorously around the edges.

   A cast iron or carbon steel skillet holds heat best for this job. Nonstick pans work but won't achieve the same crispy edges.
5. 5

   Fry the patties

   Working in batches, ladle about three-quarters cup of the egg mixture into the hot oil for each patty. Use the back of the ladle to spread it into a rough circle slightly larger than your bread slices, about four to five inches across. Let it cook undisturbed for two to three minutes until the bottom turns deep golden brown and the edges look set and lacy. The oil should be actively bubbling around the patty the entire time.

   Don't crowd the pan. Two patties at once is usually the limit for a twelve-inch skillet. Crowding drops the oil temperature and produces soggy results.
6. 6

   Flip and finish

   Slide a thin spatula under the patty and flip it confidently. Some bean sprouts may escape. This is fine. Press down gently with the spatula to flatten any thick spots. Cook another two minutes until the second side matches the first in color. The patty should be golden and crispy on both sides, cooked through but still tender within. Transfer to a wire rack set over a sheet pan to drain. Repeat with remaining batter.

7. 7

   Assemble the sandwiches

   Spread mayonnaise generously on both slices of bread for each sandwich. Be heavy-handed. This is not the time for restraint. Place a hot egg foo young patty on one slice. Top with two or three dill pickle slices and several rings of raw white onion. Add a squirt of yellow mustard if you like, though purists consider this optional. Close with the second slice of bread, press down gently, and cut in half diagonally.

8. 8

   Serve immediately

   A St. Paul sandwich waits for no one. The contrast between the warm, crispy patty and the cool, crunchy toppings is the whole point. Serve with extra pickles on the side and napkins at the ready. This is not dainty eating.

Chef Tips

• •The bread matters more than you think. Use the softest, cheapest white sandwich bread you can find. This is not the place for artisan loaves or crusty sourdough. The pillowy texture of basic white bread is essential to the sandwich's character. Wonder Bread exists for moments like this.
• •Fresh bean sprouts are worth seeking out at an Asian grocery. The canned variety is too soft and waterlogged to give you the proper crunch. If sprouts are unavailable, you can substitute finely shredded cabbage, though the result will be a different sandwich.
• •For transporting these to a picnic or potluck, keep the components separate. Pack the cooled patties wrapped in foil, the condiments in small containers, and the bread in its bag. Assemble on site. A pre-assembled St. Paul will turn soggy within thirty minutes.
• •Some St. Louis establishments add small bay shrimp, diced water chestnuts, or minced pork to their egg foo young batter. These variations are all legitimate. The core remains the egg, the sprouts, and the method.

Advance Preparation

• •The egg foo young batter can be mixed and refrigerated up to four hours ahead. Stir well before frying, as the vegetables will release liquid as they sit.
• •Cooked patties can be kept warm in a 200°F oven for up to twenty minutes, though they're best fresh from the pan.
• •For meal prep, fry all patties, cool completely, and refrigerate layered between parchment paper for up to two days. Reheat in a 375°F oven for eight minutes or in a dry skillet over medium heat until crispy again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 370g)